COL UMBIAM EDITION. 



XTwo Ibunbreb fUMIes on the 
H)elaware IRiper* 



A CANOE CRUISE 

FROM ITS HEADWATERS TO THE FALLS AT TRENTON. 



With an Historical Appendix. 



3B^ 5. Wallace Iboff. 



G:be JBranDt press, 

"Crcnton, "M. 3. 
1893.^ 



^ 






Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1893, 

Ey J. Wallace Hoff, 

In the office of the Librarian of Congress, 

at Washington, D. C. 




HE author fraternally dedicates this reminis- 
cence of a pleasant vacation trip to those 
canoemen, who, when the spirit moves them, 
laying aside the thoughts of business for the 
pleasure of grasping the double blade, gladly 
leave behind them brick walls and the dust 
of towns for the eye-resting wooded hills, the clean 
and wholesome waterway, and the health-giving tonic of 
woodland odors and cool mountain breezes. 



Trenton, N. J., December ist, 1892. 




preface* 

V THE outset the intention of this narrative 
was to give a succinct account of a canoe 
cruise down the Delaware to enable future 
voyageurs to estimate the time required for 
such a trip, and also to present some of 
the obstacles and pleasures likely to be 
encountered. 

We have departed from our original plan, however, 
because the trip was crowded with matters of interest 
relating to local scenery, towns and characteristic bits, so 
that the subject grew on our hands in a way most pleas- 
ant, at least to us, and it was natural to suppose that 
others would be entertained in reading about them if 
unable to see for themselves. 

The Delaware valley proves an inexhaustible field for 
the artist, presenting, as it does, at every point a vista 
of landscape and background, the equal of which many 
among us have travelled far to see. 

To the canoeist-photographer every turn brings to 
view an opportunity for an interesting exposure. Indeed, 



vi Pj-eface. 

the temptation is to carry away so many souvenirs that 
one camera with its outfit hardly suffices, for — 

" The mountains that enfold 
In their wide sweep, the colored landscape round, 
Seem groups of giant kings in purple and gold 
That guard the enchanted ground." 

The cruise requires plenty of hard work, but the 
result is in every way beneficial. At this day the ground 
can be covered without depending upon a camping outfit, 
as towns and villaofes — summer resorts — are so numer- 
ous along the line that accommodations are assured. 
But, I need hardly add, the only true way to thoroughly 
enjoy the outing is to spend the time in actual camping 
and cruising, recuperating the body and mind by com- 
plete change, and giving vent, if only for a short time, to 
the savagery, which to a greater or less degree is innate 
in all of us. 

The autumn is the season for canoeing, and the 
scenery of the river country during the autumn months 
is glorious. Then, also, is the best bass-fishing found. 

Apart from the picturesque character of the section 
visited by us, it is also fast gaining popularity as a region 
for summer homes, and is dotted with towns so situated 
as to add variety to sport and pastime. 

The Author. 

Trenton, N. J , November 30th, 1892. 



Contents, 



CHAPTER I. 

A Trenton Canoeing Picture. Camping and Cruising l^iscussed. The Route 
Mapped. Personnel and Materiel. 

CHAPTER n. 

These Canoeists in General. Some Asides. From Trenton to Hancock. Towns 
and Scenery. Port Jervis. Glimpses of the River. John Boyle O'Reilly. 
Afloat on the Head-waters of the Delaware. The First Night's Camp. 

CHAPTER HI. 

Mountain Mists. Rifts Cruising Rules. Description of Saw Mill. The Pecu- 
liarities of the Delaware. Black Bass. Lordville. Paradise Pool. A Lum- 
ber Shute. Long Eddy. Log Booms and Ferry Boats. Dinner at Arm- 
strong's. A Little Chemistry. Camping in a Thunder-storm. 

CHAPTER IV. 

Amenities. Hints. Scenery. Cochecton Falls. Fatigues of Portage. A Ruined 
Habitation. Narrowsburg. Hotel Arlington. Big Eddy. 

CHAPTER V. 

A Delaware Highlands Morning. A Day of Comparisons. Wild Scenery. River 
Currents. Masthope Rift. Blooming- Grove Park. Lackawaxen. Shooting 
the Dam. Shohola. A Bad Rift. Camp-fire Reveries. 

vii 



viii Co7itents. 

CHAPTER VI. 

A Dream. Poetry. A Hot Day. Parker's Glen. Lost Channel Rift. Mongaup 
Falls. Heavy Water. Baptising a Canoe. Butler's Falls. Above Port 
Jervis. Tri-state Monument. Marking a Boundary Line. Geological 
Formations. Glimmerglass. A Little French. 

CHAPTER VII. 

Milford, Pennsylvania. Sawkill Falls. " Coming Events Cast their Shadows 
Before." Eel Racks. In the Delaware Valley. We Astonish a Native. 
Rest and Revery. The First Accident. Walpack Bend. A Moonlight 
Scene. Early History. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

An Indian Dream Legend. The Blue Mountains. Water Gap. A Bit of Femi- 
ninity. Rock Formations. Farming. Ramsaysburg. Music and Echoes. 
A Handy Liquid. Sweet .Sleep. 

CHAPTER IX. 

A Clear Morning. We Find a Channel. Belvidere. Foul Rift. The Second 
Accident. Drowning of a Canoeist. Phillipsburg and Easton. Above 
Carpenterville. A Country Hotel. 

CHAPTER X. 

Tricks of a Camera. Some Places of Interest. Ringing Rocks. Religious Sects. 
Frenchtown. God's Country. At Erwinna. Lambertville (Wells') Falls 
to Tide-water. Welcomed Home. Washington's Crossing. Local His- 
tory. The Moon Once More. Exeunt. 

APPENDIX I. 

A Little Bit of History. 

APPENDIX II. 

Distances on the Delaware. 



Zo tbc Delaware, 

All powerful and restless, 
On it flows to meet the ocean — 
Flows the historic Delaware. 
Not a jot its restless motion, 
Shore, or rocks, or islets, spare. 

From the heights of mountain wilds 
Every spring and streamlet surges — 
Rushing on in glee to swell. 
By its force, the changing dirges 
Of the mighty river's spell. 

As th' untutored child of Nature, 
Strong its arm, as sure and swift, 
Down its rock-barred courses wild 
Forms it here an isle or rift : 
Yet at times 'tis peaceful, mild. 

EN PASSANT. 

Countless ages gone, and coming : 
Roll'st thou as in days of yore ? 
Or, whilst in thine angry spite, 
Hast thou a deep valley wore. 
Ribbed and scor(?d by thy might ? 

Still thou floweth on, resistless, 
Flowing in, and out, and onward. 
Ever gaining strength and force 
As the fall, which, rushing downward, 
Swells thy torrent in its course. 



Chapter 11, 

A TRENTON CANOEING PICTURE. 
CAMPING AND CRUISING DISCUSSED. 
THE ROUTE MAPPED. 
PERSONNEL AND MATERIEL. 



I hear the babbling to the vale 
( )f sunshine and of tlowers, 

But unto me thou bring' st a tale 
Of visionary hours. — IVordswortli. 



BEAUTIFUL moonlight evening in the month 
of July, during the year 1891 . In one corner 
of the broad porch at the front of a group 
of canoe-houses overlookino- the Delaware 
river, at Trenton, N. J., sit two members 
of the Park Island Canoeing Association 
engaged in earnest conversation. Around them is bustle 
and confusion ; canoeists with paddles and pipes, sails and 
canoes are passing and repassing from the floats to the 
houses, whilst canoes are lying along-shore or darting 
across or up river. In front of one of the houses two 
of the graceful craft are being packed for a camp at 
Park Island. In the club-houses, lights and lanterns shed 
their brilliancy, disclosing racks of canoes, duffle, pad- 
dles, and other articles whose value is so well known to 




4 Tjvo Hundred Miles on the Delaivare River. 

the canoeing fraternity. Close to the "Colony" flows 
the waveless river, its swift current scarcely heard save 
where it sweeps past some entangled bush or exposed 
rock. 

In the distance can be heard the ceaseless surging of 
the Trenton Falls. 

The animated picture was one of nightly occurrence 
to the canoemen mentioned, and was just the con- 
dition of thinos to direct the thoughts into canoeinp- 
channels. 

The two members before mentioned were discussinor 
at this moment, between clouds of fragrant smoke, their 
annual vacation. That it would be in some way con- 
nected with canoeing and camping was assured. But 
how? Would it be a camp at "Rum-brag,"'^' Eagle 
Island, the Millstone, at Park Island, or would it be a 
cruise f 

Camps are all well enough in their way, but the 
idea was given up immediately the last proposition 
was advanced. The suggestion was met with such 
enthusiasm that at a later hour, when lights were out 
and silence reigned supreme, two blanket-enwrapped 
canoeists tossed uneasily upon their cots, troubled by 
visions of swift currents and foam-lashed falls, with which 

*A fishing camp on the Delaware. 



The Cauocnicn and thci7' Cra/t. 5 

they were battling in a journey down the Delaware from 
its headwaters to the tide. 

The romantic moon was responsible for a realistic 
undertaking. 

The proposed cruise soon became noised about, and 
within a week the party was increased to six canoeists, 
and the date of starting fixed for September the twelfth. 
The personnel and materiel of the trip were as follows : 

William M. Carter, canoe Zerlina. 15^^30, Peterboro 
canoe, full-decked, with six foot pointed cockpit and 
canvas cover. 

Clark Cooper, canoe NyleptJia, 15x30, Clinker built, 
by Wiser, of Philadelphia, full-decked, oval cockpit, with 
cover, with fore and aft compartments for dry stowage. 

Harry Allen, canoe Weroivance, 12x26, Watertown 
Canoe company, smooth skin. This was originally an 
open boat, but had been decked to meet the require- 
ments of the trip. Although the smallest of the fleet, 
she was very dry. 

Frederick Donnelly, 15x30, Bowdish canoe, smooth 
skin, curved stem and stern-posts. A very pretty open 
canoe, entirely covered with oiled drilling. 

The author, canoe AhiJiiwi, 14x30x10, an open Water- 
town huntincr canoe, smooth skin, covered with oiled 



6 Ttvo Hundred Miles on the Dela7vare River- 

canvas. This canoe was the first open canoe paddled 
on the Delaware at Trenton, and weighs about fifty-five 
pounds. 

The balance of our equipments consisted of canoe 
traps, camp blankets, tents, cots, cooking utensils, 
skeleton stoves and oil stoves, provision kits, lanterns, 
hatchets and toilet bags. 

The sporting outfit comprised an Anthony and a 
Havvkeye plate camera, fishing implements and a pistol. 
This outfit, we are sorry to say, reached port in bad 
condition, the Hawkeye being warped and swollen out 
of its fine elegant joints, warranted perfectly light-proof ; 
the fishing tackle devoid of glittering spoons and bloated 
rubber minnows and minus from ten to fifty feet of its 
original length, and the pistol — well, a little Stockport 
dew soon rendered the breech more dansferous than the 
muzzle, and made a self-cocking, rapid-firing self-ejector 
as harmless as some cannon of General Washington's, 
with which we are all familiar. 



Chapter 1I1I, 

THESE CANOEISTS IN GENERAL. 

SOME ASIDES. 

EROM TRENTON TO HANCOCK. 

TOWNS AND SCENERY. 

PORT JERVIS. 

GLIMPSES OF THE RIVER. 

JOHN BOYLE O'REILLY. 

AFLOAT ON THE HEADWATERS OF THE DELAWARE. 

THE FIRST NIGHT'S CAMP. 




Up with my tent ; here will I lie to-night, 

But where to-morrow ? Well, all's one for that. — Richard III. 



OR punctuality and dependence (and indepen- 
dence, too) commend to me a canoeist. If he 
says he will do a thing, he'll do it, and at the 
time agreed upon. "If he says he won't, 
he won't, you may depend upon it." 

Our only roll call was the week previous 
to our start, when we shipped canoes and outfits. At 
that time the fell hand of death necessitated the with- 
drawal from our party of one whom we all counted on 
havino^ with us. Sorrowino- with him in his loss, we 
accepted the situation, making up by keeping our absent 
comrade apprised of our movements and experiences as 
best we could. 

It was at 5:15 o'clock on a Saturday morning that four 
of our party gathered at the station, equipped for the all- 
rail journey to Hancock, N. Y., free mortals for ten whole 
days and a distance of four hundred and twenty-five miles. 

9 



lo Tivo Hundred Miles on the Delazvare River. 

The morning was gray and the crowd looked sleepy. 
Exchaneino- confidences, each confessed to having re- 
sorted to the fiendish alarm-clock in order to be on time. 
And one, Oh, horrors! despairing of the " rouseful " 
abilities of one clock, owned up to having impressed 
two into service. Cab orders were filled as usual, one 
man being served at 4:30, another forgotten entirely. 
At 5:37 the Pittsburgh train came rolling in, and we 
began the first stage of the journey, to Jersey City. We 
made good time, and as the morning advanced intro- 
duced into our apartment some fresh air for the sleepy 
passengers to digest. The discussion of railroad and 
river maps occupied a great deal of attention, for, with 
one exception, we were entirely unacquainted with the 
country through which we were to cruise. Tiring of 
this, we took up the discussion of fruit and sandwiches 
furnished by "my wife's mother-in-law," finally drifting 
into speculations concerning some of our feminine 
fellow-travelers. 

One brunette, with tumbled hair and bedraggled cos- 
tume, we sat down as an ''all-nighter." She braced up 
as the day advanced, and got out at Newark. Of two 
others — one a pretty blonde with an elegant figure, the 
other a brune-blonde, petite and pleasant-faced, we 



En Route to Hancock, N. Y. ii 

decided were sisters, evidently traveling in a new- 
country, as they occupied single seats near the windows, 
and kept up an incessant conversation. We concluded 
that they had gotten on at some station down the road 
— Philadelphia, probably, as they carried bouquets of 
fresh rtowers, and had clean complexions. 

For the sake of accuracy, and the benefit of whom it 
may concern, I will explain that during the foregoing 
study and deductions. Carter was asleep in the forward 
part of the car. 

We caught glimpses of New Brunswick, Metuchen, 
Iselin, Railway, Linden, Newark, and Jersey City, all 
bathed in the early morning sun. 

The latter place we reached at 7:35, and ran into the 
ferry over the recently completed elevated tracks of the 
Pennsylvania company, catching bits of early morning 
domesticity through fluttering curtains and half-closed 
blinds, characteristic of second-story boudoir and dining- 
room living. 

Imagine this parade of household affairs, ye retired 
country-dwellers and would-be-secluded city tenants. 

We ran into the new arched terminal station of the 
Pennsylvania railroad, with its amazing network of iron 
and wire-rope girders and stays, its interior flooded with 



12 Tivo Hundred Miles on the Delazvare River- 

light through the Immense hghts in the roof stretching 
from end to end. This is the largest railroad station in 
the world, not even excepting that of St. Pan eras. It 
covers four acres of ground, is 652 feet long, 256 feet 
wide and 1 1 5 feet high. 

Another innovation, the double-decked ferry-boat, we 
missed, as the intended second-story w^aiting-room was 
not completed. Going down a flight of steps we took 
the regulation boat for New York. 

The trip through the city up to the Chambers street 
ferry by way of the water-front at this early hour gave 
us a little insight into several novelties. We passed 
fish-stalls, poultry booths, cheap restaurants and sidewalk 
"stores" — under awnings and in cellars. From the 
typical groggery, ambled down-at-the-heel and blear-eyed 
roustabouts, wiping away the burning spray after a nip 
of questionable character, bought with some chance coin 
picked up the day before. 

On one hand a " hatter " with a sparsely-splinted whisk 
flicked spots of dust from antiquated tiles, felts and straws. 
Further on a couple of fat cooks, complacently seated on 
peach baskets along the curb, jabbed their thumbs and 
fore-fingers into the weather indicators of skinny-looking 
chickens, much to the disgust of the merchants. 



En Route to Hancock, X. Y. 13 

At our heels hung" three "job hunters," one of whom 
in choice dialect advised his companion to strike out for 
the country in search of work. Said he, " Ever buddy 
is 'er niakin' fer der big towns an' doan giv' a feller no 
chance. See?" — a bit of philosophy his friends readily 
seconded, showing that if one-half of the world does 
not know how the other half lives, it can make a pretty 
shrewd guess. 

Jostling through the motley throng we embarked on a 
screw ferry-boat, the ample, clean cabin-room of which 
we all remarked, and in a few minutes landed at the 
New York, Lake Erie and Western railroad station. 
We were again in Jersey City. 

In explanation of our round-about route, I would state 
it was at the suggestion of Clark, whose object in going 
over to New York was to avoid the crowds, and attend- 
ant delay to be met with in Jersey City. As our guide 
is a thorough Jerseyman, I leave further consideration of 
the subject with the reader. 

Securing tickets, guide-books, morning papers and other 
reading matter, we repaired to the dining-room, where, 
seating ourselves at the round table, we ordered a hungry 
man's breakfast. We had been canoeing all summer, 
and there was not an impaired digestion in the crowd. 



14 Two Hundred Miles on the Delaicare River. 

While we were loitering over coffee, Fred tumbled in 
on us, fresh from an evening and morning in New York. 
Of course, his experiences were manifold. 

Later we learned that these experiences were the 
result of a triple-expansion, high-pressure imagination : 
and we found a safe average was one-third of his results. 
For example, some of his two-feet bass, which always 
succeeded in escaping as they were being hauled into 
the canoe, might be reduced to eight inches. 

At 9:20 we boarded the Frie vestibule, and were soon 
en route for Hancock. Counting noses, we found our 
force as follows : Carter, the "father" (later contracted 
to "Dad") of the expedition, so called on account of 
age and experience, and from the fact that the trip we 
were about to make was made by him in 1882 ; Cooper, 
the Association's traveler, bicyclist, canoeist, photo- 
grapher, and CRANK ; Allen, amateur canoeist, photo- 
grapher and botanist; Donnelly (the quartermaster), a 
recruit to the ranks of canoemen and cruisers, who 
turned out the crowd's tonic by day and by night in a 
double sense, besides being a general informer on topics 
of interest — with the usual proviso ; lastly, the log- 
keeper, the title sufficing in this direction. 

We had over a hundred and sixty miles to go and 



En Route to Hancock. X. )' 15 

then our troubles, like those ot the little bears, would 
bei^in. But miles and troubles are as nauorht in these 
days, and, besides, we were traveling through a country 
abounding in excellent scenery. The Ramapo and 
Delaware valleys and the Delaware Highlands certainly 
justify the admiration bestowed upon them. The 
scenery is a constant panoramic change. 'Xeath pre- 
cipitous hills we rush to cosy villages and busy towns, 
and then on to stretches of level country devoted to 
fruit and stock-raising. The rural surroundinors, health- 
giving atmosphere, and glimpses of long, low farm- 
houses, suggesting peaceful comforts amidst a land of 
plenty, cause the city resident to sigh for the things he 
enjoyeth not. 

" Oh I friendly to the best pursuits of man. 
Friendly to thought, to virtue, and to peace, 
Domestic life in rural pleasures past I" 

From Jersey City to Mahwah the road runs in and out 
of the famous country drained by the Passaic river. 
Rutherford, Garfield, Passaic, Clifton, Paterson, Ridge- 
wood, Hohokus and Ramsey's, with from six hundred to 
fifteen thousand population, are some of the well-known 
towns through which we pass. 

The first town across the Xew Jersey line is Suffern. 



1 6 Tivo Hundred Miles on the Delaicare River. 

Thfi rest of our journey was through rocky defiles and 
fertile plains in New York state. 

Oiiotine from the Erie ofuide-book, the surroundings 
are described as follows : 

"At Suffern the Erie swings into the Ramapo valley, 
through a narrow defile. For fifteen miles the valley 
extends, mountain bound, and at times is of barely suffi- 
cient width to allow the passage, side by side, of the 
river, the historic post-road and the Erie ; while again it 
will widen out in a dell or ravine which marks the course 
of a mountain rill or torrent. Here and there, too, the 
mountains recede, and the valley spreads itself into a 
fertile plain, and in these occasional plateaus nestle, in 
the order named, the little hamlets of Hillburn, Ramapo, 
Sterlinofton, Sloatsbure, Tuxedo Park (with its hard 
driving roads, picturesque stone fences and lodge-house 
at the entrance to well-kept estates), Southfields and 
Arden. The river is a panorama of rare beauty. Its 
head-waters are in a series of mountain springs and 
lakes, and in its course through the valley it first 
meanders across the fiat lands, then sinks into a narrow 
deep bowl, to widen presently into a placid lake, and 
finally, before its exit into the level country beyond the 
valley, it tumbles over a ledge of rocks, and falls, a 



En Route to Hancock, N. Y. 17 

seething, roaring mass, to its rocky bed fully fifty feet 
below. In the quiet portions the boating is charming ; 
the banks now and then open into snug grottoes and 
dells, down which come sparkling, splashing streams from 
the rock-bound springs above, while the dense over- 
hanging foliage affords a refreshing shade, and there are 
many sheltered pools where the bathing is delightful. 
The river, as well as the mountain lakes from which it 
springs, is populous with game-fish, and in the wooded 
mountains small game of ever}^ variety is plentiful, 
insuring to the visitor the best sport with gun and rod." 

And what is said of this spot is equally true of other 
localities in this section and beyond. At every turn 
mountain and lowland vistas, bold knobs and deep 
gullies broke upon the view. 

At Turners, where a short stop was made to await the 
New York express, the boys went to sample the famous 
Orange county milk on tap at the railroad restaurant. 
They all agreed as to its excellence, and Carter sighed 
for a bottle. 

All aboard ! The journey is resumed, and we fly past 
Monroe, Oxford, Greycourt, Chester, Goshen, Hampton, 
Middletown (where the rasping pun, How do you make 
Moses from the word Middletown ? Ans. Leave off 



1 8 Two Hundred Miles on the Delaivare River. 

"iddletown" and add " oses " was sprung as usual), 
Howells, Otisville, Guymard — all in Orange county — and 
at 12:30 we reach Port Jervis. 

Heavens and earth, boys, what's the racket ? Bees ? 
No wonder the question. The air resounds with the 
pandemonium and clatter so well known to bee-keepers 
on a swarm day. Out on the platform all is bustle and 
confusion. Pretty maidens with their elderly mammas, 
or chaperones, parade about, laden with shawls, grips 
and boxes awaiting the making up of the new train. 
Trucks, trunks and milk cans lie all about the station. 
Stage drivers and hotel runners jostle and squeeze, 
swear and coax. 

" Refreshments." 

In front of the inviting hotel doorway and around it a 
sable son of Senegambia rubbles a puncher on the disk 
of a brass plate in suspension, calling you in this polite 
way " to dinnah !" For once, where there is noise there 
is comfort. Going into the long building on the left, the 
crowd hustles us to the lunch counter, where boot-leg-s 
of milk and pyramids of sandwiches and pie, cups of 
coffee and plates of cake greet the eye. No traditional 
railroad lunch here. Everything is sweet and clean, and 
we have unlimited time. 



Oicr Craft hi Jeopardy. 19 

We were soon on the road again. From Port Jervis 
the railroad winds alonor the river bank, and we watched 
the rifts and falls with feverish anxiety whenever close 
enough, speculating on our chances of a safe journey 
home. The river had been falling for the past week, 
and some rifts were dangerously low. Others again 
were deep and rocky, and visions of swamped and 
broken boats, and duffle afloat to the sea filled our 
imaginations. 

Hancock at 3:20 P. M. 

Grasping paddles and bundles, we left the stuffy car 
for a breath of fresh air and a sigfht of the East Branch. 
We found the town rather a dusty place among the hills, 
situated in what was formerly known as Hardenburg's 
Patent. It has three laroe hotels, several o"roceries, a 
hardware store, newspaper office, etc. 

We went at once to the freight station to look up 
canoes and dunnao^e. The little God of Luck was with us. 
We found everything as shipped from Trenton, but could 
not help expostulating at the manner in which the canoes 
were piled — light and empty ones at the bottom and the 
heavy, loaded ones on top — a state of things favoring a 
bad strain or a tear in cockpit hatches and covers. The 
agent, who was obliging, and assisted us in every way 



20 Two Hundred Miles on the Delaware River. 

possible, explained that the boats had only arrived that 
morning. 

We had shipped them the week previous and shrugged 
our shoulders at the close connection. 

Talk about a boy with his first gun, or a girl with a 
new beau. The sights around us made all anxious for 
an immediate start. All but the novice. He thought it 
a good plan to stop over night at a hotel and make an 
early start in the morning. 

Well! 

Allen was picking cinders out of his eyes. Carter gasp- 
ing for breath, and the rest with throats like salamanders, 
and here was a would-be canoeist preferring a stuffy hotel 
to a woodland camp. 

As a punishment we deputized him in his capacity as 
Quartermaster to see to the purchase of provisions, while 
the rest, hunting up a couple of carts, soon had canoes 
and dunnacje at the water's edcre. 

The NaJiiwi, first to kiss the waters of the East branch, 
was drawn up alongside a heavy scow, into which I had 
transferred most of my duffle. 

Just before packing, an elderly gentlemen in the crowd 
was so enthused with the canoes as they lay bunched on 
the shore, and with the idea of a cruise, that he asked 



Ready to Start. 21 

permission to try one of the canoes. Upon my placing 
my canoe at his disposal he jumped in, and, preferring 
a single blade, gracefully paddled across the river and 
up a swift rift, returning out of breath with the unusual 
exercise. We were agreeably surprised at his steady 
seat, for although he stated that he was used to boats, a 
sixty-pound open canoe with ten-inch siding is not steady 
ridinof. 

At the foot of Point Mountain, in a deep pool just 
below a small rift that dashes under the iron bridge, we 
packed our impedimenta. The usual crowd of curious 
natives gazed upon the operation from a respectful dis- 
tance. The canoes of the veterans, through constant 
practice on many camps and cruises of by-gone days, 
were stowed and trimmed with precision each morning, 
and methodically unpacked to expedite the making of 
each night's camp. We knew from experience the 
necessity of careful trimming and the danger, while 
running a rapid, of a badly-balanced boat, or one down 
in the nose. 

As for the Quartermaster, he learned a great many 
wrinkles conducive to comfort in canoeing before we 
struck our last camp. In my opinion the most important 
was that a square tin bread canister is at no time more 



2 2 Two Hundred Miles on the Delazvare River. 

noticeable than when stowed abaft the forward thwart, 
within reach of the knees of a long-legged canoeist. 

The Mohawk, or West branch of the Delaware river, 
rises in the Catskill mountain range, in Schoharie county, 
New York ; the Popacton (Popacktunk O. S.), or East 
branch, in the mountain fastnesses of Greene and Ulster 
counties. Both branches flow through a thinly-settled 
country, wild and lonesome in the extreme. They are 
separated by lofty mountain ranges, and, running nearly 
parallel, meet a short distance below Hancock, at the 
base of Point Mountain, a name whose appropriateness 
will be seen when compared with the photograph, which 
shows plainly its distinctive feature. Both streams are 
supplied by numerous kills, large and small, some being 
named on the maps in the Indian and Dutch tongues, 
but a larger number bearing no name at all. 

The Popacton is very shallow from Arkville to Han- 
cock. Mr. Carter, with two Trenton canoeists, Messrs. 
Frank Sigler and R. G. Lucas, of the Crescent Canoe 
Club, made the trip in 1882, during the month of June, 
and had hard canoeing. Although they had a rafting 
"fresh," the shallows gave them considerable annoy- 
ance. 

The same year, later in the season, two New York 



John Boyle O' Reilly. 23 

canoeists attempted the trip, and had to give it up on 
account of the low stage of the water. 

In 1885, John Boyle O'Reilly, at that time flush with 
triumphs from pen and paddle, in company with three 
comrades, essayed the trip from Hancock. They found 
the water so low that they were compelled to re-ship 
their fleet to Port Jervis, from whence they made a new 
start. Mr. O'Reilly's article in the December. 1886, issue 
of the Boston Pilot had been read by each of us, and 
our familiarity with this and his other works gave occa- 
sion to frequent references to the gentlemanly advocate 
of out-of-door culture. A feeling of sympathy arose for 
the time being, strengthened doubtless by the fact that 
our thoughts and craft, although at different periods, 
were running in the same channels. In common with 
thousands of others, Trenton canoemen heard with deep 
sorrow the story of his sudden end ; the testimony from 
all was that at the close, as in the hig-h noon of his life, 
he was truly noble. 

At 4:30 P. M. we passed the word " Ready !" Cooper 
and Allen shot their cameras at the scenery, the crowd, 
and the loaded and manned canoes, and we pushed out 
into the East branch, two hundred miles from home, one 
thousand feet above the sea level, and surrounded by 



24 Tzvo Hiind7'ed Miles on the Delaware River. 

towering mountains and cliffs, which were rapidly shut 
ting out the sun's warm rays. 

Ye Gods of health and strength ! to you we drank the 
cheer we felt, in deepest draughts of pure, fresh moun- 
tain air, swept from 'hills of spruce and pine, filtered 
through branches and cooled by deep ravine and rocky 
gorge. We drank to you in cups of clean — yes, clean, 
— wholesome water, dipped over the canoe's side from 
a mountain stream fed by countless springs, cool, deep 
and swift. No pollution here ; its cleanliness you could 
both see and taste. 

In our enjoyment of the scene around us, we made 
the mountains ring with our overflowing spirits. As we 
skirted the base of the mountain, in comparatively deep 
water, Cooper and Carter were suddenly "hung up" 
on partly submerged rocks, twisting about on keels just 
amidships. They were gotten off without trouble, but 
we had the laugh on them. 

We found the East branch shallow and narrow. Just 
below the town we struck our first rift. The choppy 
ripples in the swift shoot lapped playfully the bows of 
our buoyant craft, giving the stern a parting dash as we 
left the last rush in our wake. After that, shallows and 
rifts being of such common occurrence, we gave them 



Headzvaters of the Delaware. 25 

no especial thought, unless to wish for their aid when we 
were in some long, smooth stretch or eddy, through 
which it meant work to paddle. At the end of Point 
Mountain, which was reached in a short time, we met 
the waters of the Mohawk branch. At the conjunction 
of the streams we found a large raft stranded. This 
diverted the channel, and both tributaries entered the 
larger river — the Delaware proper — with a musical rush, 
as though glad to cease their checkered course in their 
own shallow beds. 

It was well we started from Hancock. Further up we 
should have experienced great trouble, even if we had 
the great good fortune of getting through at all. 

The West branch is well named, for, as we cast our 
eyes up its course, indicated by winding mountains as 
far as eye could see, the setting sun bathed our polished 
craft in a flood of golden light, tinting the waters ahead 
and behind, and bathing with his rays the far reaching 
Highlands. Getting a photographic view of the land- 
scape, we resumed paddling, having started in earnest 
on our voyage down the Delaware. 

Rips and raps were of frequent occurrence. If deep 
enough we floated through them. If we lost the channel, 
which was often the case, we stepped overboard and 



2 6 Ttvo Hundred Miles on the Delazvare River. 

guided and hauled the canoes over the gravelly bottom 
to deeper water. This was not scientific canoeing, but 
it saved time. 

Donnelly trolled, and had several strikes, getting a 
couple of fine bass and losing one or two at the head of 
rifts. Then came a quiet paddle, during which 'with 
some trouble we found a camp site just below Stockport, 
and at 6.20 pitched tents and started fires. 

The ground was stony, and tent pegs would barely 
hold, so we pegged the tents down with rocks to our 
entire satisfaction. After this experience, we agreed to 
hunt for a camping ground earlier, as darkness soon 
pervaded the valley, when the sun's rays left it. 

This, our first camp of the trip, comprised three tents. 
Cooper and the author together, up stream, Carter and 
Allen next, and then Donnelly, who was going it on the 
individual plan. He received during the trip all sorts of 
advice and help, and, for the purpose of keeping even, 
paid each one back to the best of his ability. 

There was also lots of fun at the novice's camping and 
cooking, but the meal was ready at last, and so, down 
between deep hills, in gathering darkness and quietness, 
surrounded by forests, rocks and stream, we ate our 
suppers with wholesome relish. 



Our First Catup. 27 

We had had some wading to do — but the water was 
warm and we had paid no attention to our wettings. We 
dried our clothes before a big fire that sent smoke and 
flames and sparks skyward ; we smoked, swapped fish 
stories, and watched the reflection of the moon over the 
mountain tops, the stars, and snaky streams of Hght from 
passing trains on the opposite bank. At last, at 9:30 
P. M., we turned in to sleep in our first bivouac at the 
foot of the mountains of the Delaware Highlands. 



Cbaptcr HHH. 



MOUNTAIN MISTS. 

RIFTS. 

CRUISING RULES. 

DESCRIPTION OF SAW MILL. 

THE PECULIARITIES OF THE DELAWARE. 

BLACK BASS. 

LORDVILLE. 

PARADISE POOL. 

A LUMBER SHUTE. 

LONG EDDY. 

LOG BOOMS AND FERRY BOATS. 

DINNER AT ARMSTRONG'S. 

A LITTLE CHEMISTRY. 

CAMPING IN A THUNDER-STORM. 




The turf shall be my fragrant shrine, 

My temple, Lord ! that arch of thine ; 

My censers breath the mountain airs, 

And silent thoughts my only prayers. — Moore. 



UN DAY. 

The previous evening had been quite 
warm, but towards morning- the atmosphere 
became cold and penetrating and we wrapped 
ourselves closer in the warm blankets. 

We awakened at seven o'clock, three of 
us, at least, having had a fine night's sleep. Carter had 
not been feeling well, and consequently slept lightly. 
Allen also was sick during the night, and what with pain 
and dosing, did not get over the effects until some hours 
after rising. 

Upon looking out of the tents, we found the heavy 
night mist hanging over the valley and dripping from 
bushes and trees. The greensward glistened with bead- 
like drops, and from the rocks that hung over the stream 

31 



32 Two Hundred Miles on the Delazvare River. 

the condensed vapor slowly trickled to some angle, 
whence it fell with musical tinkle. During our trip we 
found that this heavy mist prevailed every morning until 
we reached Ramsaysburg, N. J., one hundred and 
twenty-five miles down river, where the valley begins to 
widen and the low rolling lands appear. The dampness 
was dispelled by the sun as soon as its rays could strike 
in over the mountain tops, which, however, was not 
until about eight o'clock. This made a late morning 
for us. 

By the time we had our breakfast over, it became very 
warm, the vapor acting as a burning glass to collect the 
heat. 

On this morning we were in no particular hurry. The 
early hours gave promise of a pleasant day, and we had 
many things of interest to occupy our attention. By 
the time we were ready to pack, the sun had thoroughly 
dried our tents and clothing. 

At last we pushed away from camp, drifting slowly 
into the current, which at the first bend carried us into a 
rift. Indeed, a noticeable fact in our cruise was that 
every camp, with one exception, was made above a rift 
or fall. We thus each day had an early reminder of the 
work before us. 



Our Plan of Progress. 33 

Knowlne that we had some hard work ahead before 
the trip would be finished, and not being hardened to the 
continuous use of the blades, we did not exert ourselves, 
merely paddling a trifle faster than the current. To-day, 
too, we not only had a couple in our party somewhat 
indisposed, but Donnelly was considered a novitiate to 
be broken in without being broken up. To accomplish 
with pleasure two hundred miles in canoes, sitting steadily 
and wielding even a light paddle, requires a gradual pre- 
liminary hardening. 

By following our plan as above, when we rounded to 
under the bluff at our island home each man found him- 
self benefitted and rested, and although we paddled only 
twelve miles the first day, forty-four were logged on the 
last. 

Just below our camp, in a bend and facing a smooth 
lake-like opening in the Highlands, we found hidden 
away one of the numerous saw mills to be met with in 
this section. From its location and characteristics it was 
worth photographing, and Cooper brought his camera 
into play. Paddling across stream, and running the 
canoe alongside of a group of up-river punts, I went 
ashore to inspect. I found the mill was used for sawing 
heavy logs into planking. The logs were hauled from 

3 



34 Two Hujidred Miles on the Delaware River. 

the mountain-side lumber districts by teams, or in season 
floated down stream. The buildings, three in number, 
for sheltering- workmen and machinery, were erected in 
what had been a mountain gully. The possibility of a 
washout was prevented by a stout dam of earth and 
timbers, braced by rocks, built above. This dam stopped 
in its course a tiny mountain rivulet, whose channel, 
diverted from its bed higher up, was led around to the 
right by a circuitous route and then carried ove)^ its 
natural bed, and thirty feet above it, by means of a 
trestle-supported wooden shute, to a log flume, four feet 
square, into which the water tumbled, operating an over- 
shot wheel. Huge piles of sawdust and lumber scraps 
lay scattered about. This debris is annually cleared 
away by the large freshets, the water necessarily rising 
high in the narrow valley. 

The inspection over, and the photograph taken, we 
resumed paddles. The river twisted and turned con- 
tinually, and at every bend we encountered a shallow 
rift with an accompanying eddy. 

Before leaving the mountain chains an interesting 
peculiarity in the course of the stream was often pressed 
upon our notice. Looking ahead of us, we would 
imagine from the formation of the ranges that our way 



The Lor-cV s Day. 35 

was always to the right of the bend. But in many- 
instances we were badly deceived. In fact, there was 
no telling how the channel would bear, as a small under- 
lying mountain, or a level stretch, would cause an entirely 
new formation, and it would be hours before we would 
reach that portion of the course reckoned upon. Of 
course, the aggregate of these bends made our mileage 
one and a half times greater than if we had traveled in 
a straight line. 

It was a perfect September morning, with cloudless 
sky and warm sun, and scarcely a disturbance on the 
water's surface, save where it passed over a partly 
sunken rock, or rushed down a steep incline. 

Carter, Allen and Donnelly trolled, catching ten or 
twelve very fine black bass. We were traveling almost 
too fast for successful fishing. Several spoons were lost, 
and points of hooks were continually broken as the 
canoes floated over shallow, rocky rips. 

About twelve o'clock we coasted down a steep rift, 
and landed under the bridge at Lordville. Very appro- 
priately the names of the day and the place coincided. 
For us the place proved lucky also, as several very 
necessary things were accomplished. Not the least 
of these was the use of the post ofifice and telegraph 



36 Two Hundred Miles' 07i the Delaivare River. 

Station, at which latter place Allen wired home for a 
pair of stout blades to be sent to him at Port Jervis, 
as he had broken his light spoon blades early in the 
morning. 

The custodian at the toll bridge was a very interesting 
elderly man, witty and full of life. He was well informed 
on the topics of the day, and kept up a newsy conver- 
sation until we left. 

Under the bridge the current ran swift and clear, and 
we floated for a long distance, watching the quickly dis- 
appearing stones and shells on the bottom as we rushed 
over them. 

About two o'clock we shot down a rift, the foot of 
which seemed to run under a mountain, the largest and 
most beautiful in point of shape and evergreen growth 
that we had yet seen. 

Suddenly, making an elbow bend, we glided into a 
deep, placid pool. That it was deep we knew from the 
impossibility of touching bottom with an eleven foot 
paddle although it was darted downward with force 
enough to cause it to disappear from sight. That it was 
placid the want of a single disturbing ripple, even to the 
next bend, denoted. We were shut in by mountains ; 
we were mere specks in the midst of nature's grandeur. 



Sights and Scenes- 37 

Receding from the sharp bend, westerly, the elevations 
and depressions as far as eye could reach showed a 
pleasing picture of sunlight and shadow fantastically 
broken and controlled by the ranges of hills. The 
Pennsylvania side of the river was thickly studded 
with ponderous half-submerged rocks. These rocks 
were curiously formed of layers of limestone, cemented, 
seemingly, one above another, and worn smooth and 
round by the action of ice and water. 

The solitude and peaceful surroundings made a little 
paradise in which we were prone to tarry awhile, but we 
must onward, so, making a material impression on the 
dry-plate, we dropped down stream, recalling the words 
from Bryant's hymn. 

" My heart is awed within me when I think 
Of the great miracle that still goes on, 
In silence round me — the perpetual work 
Of thy creation, finished, yet renewed 
Forever." 

Some distance above Long Eddy we came to a lumber 
slide, built down the mountain side from the plateau above. 

To inspect it, I ran my canoe behind a large rock and 
landed. Looking upward, I saw, disappearing in the 
thick growth almost straight above me, a narrow open- 



;^8 Tzvo Hundred Allies on the Delaware River. 

ing, made by cutting away trees and underbrush. 
About fifty feet from the river, in the center of the open- 
ing, a mighty hickory tree, trimmed some twenty-five 
feet from the o^round, had been left standingr. This 
sturdy tree supported, far better than artificial braces, the 
end of a V-shaped shute of hemlock, the beginning of 
which was out of sight among the trees. The logs, 
being cut and trimmed in the forests above, are placed 
in the shute and started down. Gathering momentum 
as they proceed, they slide to the end of the trough, 
when they shoot viciously into space and then drop into 
the river. This vigorous friction wears the shute as 
smooth as glass. 

I made the ascent to the top, a feat that required a 
great deal of wind and grip, and gave Cooper a chance 
to catch a snap shot at a log as it launched into the air. 
The descent to the water's edge was made zig-zag 
fashion, with several missteps and slides which happily 
were not serious. 

Afloat again, we were compelled to go outside a 
small boom, held out from shore by anchoring in mid 
stream, and built to catch the logs as they came floating 
down. From this boom they are pushed into the cur- 
rent again, only to be caught and shunted over to the 



up- River Ferries- 39 

New York shore by a big boom, stretching entirely 
across the stream at Long Eddy. 

We lifted over the log boom and held a council close 
by a ferry boat peculiar to the section, and used to con- 
nect the shore ends of the main highways in New York 
and Pennsylvania. 

These ferry boats we met with all along the river. 
Some are run diagonally across stream, guided by trolley 
and guys, and propelled by iron-shod punting or setting 
poles, or huge, cumbersome oars. Others are reeled 
across by a windlass, to which a submerged cotton or 
wire rope is attached. The boats are about twenty-five 
feet in lenofth, ten feet beam, with sides two feet hieh. 
The ends are built alike, each being merely a continu- 
ation of the bottom above the load line on an incline, 
and extending past the siding. This forms a gang-way 
to the road, enabling teams to be driven on board from 
one end and on land from the other. 

Our council was for the purpose of discussing whether 
we should or should not stop for dinner. 

We were all hungry, and had been having plenty of 
exercise. Besides, the clouds we had noticed early 
in the afternoon were becoming darker, and omnious 

o 

thunder mutterings sounded among the Highlands. 



40 Two Hundred Miles on the Delaivare River. 

As if to decide us a few drops of rain came pattering 
down. 

Yes, we would try for a meal at Charles Armstrong's 
Maple Grove Hotel, at which place, a man with a kettle 
informed us, we could get a "square meal." 

Fastening down the canvas covers and donninof oil- 
skins we tramped up to the hotel, sun-burned and wet. 
Donnelly had gone ahead to order the meal, and, as it 
was late, he reported that we would have to take what 
was set before us. Having had previous experience at 
country boarding-houses we acquiesced, being sure of 
plenty to eat. While waiting, we engaged in conver- 
sation with a Mr. Rose, whom we found to be Mr. Arm- 
strong's right-hand man in his numerous enterprises. 

Mr. Rose asked us if we had time to inspect a native 
industry — refining wood. Noting that we looked at him 
quizzically, he said, "Yes, that's what I mean — to be 
more accurate — manufacturino- wood alcohol." 

At this remark Allen, who had handled the product in 
the hardware business, nodded his head, and said it 
would be worth seeing. 

Under the gruidance of Mr. Rose, we went a short 
distance down the main street, and turned into the 
factory yard. 



A Dissertation on Wood Alcohol. 41 

On the opposite side of the street, in a vacant lot, we 
saw innumerable piles of cord-wood. Here was the 
secret of the lumber slide on the mountain and the loo- 
boom. 

In the yard, under long" sheds, were heaps of charcoal. 
In an open court were rows of iron vats, from under the 
lids of which steam with a strong odor was issuing. 

Entering- the buildintr. we saw before us eig^ht furnaces 
with high iron retorts above them. The retorts were 
full of wood, and in the furnaces the hottest of charcoal 
fires. 

The stench that pervaded the place was awful — a com- 
bination of charcoal gas — sweet smelling and overpower- 
ing, alcohol and tar. 

Going back of the furnaces we found high wooden 
tanks filled with clear cold water from a mountain stream 
near by, through which ran coiled pipes, connecting with 
the retorts and with a large pipe at the foot of the 
tanks, which latter pipe ran to a sunken vat. Further 
on in the store-room were heaps of acetate of lime, 
and vats of crude alcohol and wood-tar. The process 
of extracting these products, as explained to us, was as 
follows : 

The cord wood is stacked in the retorts, above the 



42 Two Hundred Miles on the Delaware River. 

furnaces, and allowed to carbonize as in the making of 
charcoal in southern New Jersey. But the details of 
the process are different. Here all the gas, smoke and 
steam generated from the hard wood, instead of being 
wasted, is carried by tubes from the retorts into a huge 
vat. The pipes running through the cold water, as 
before stated, causes the condensation of a compound 
of lime, alcohol, tar and pyroligneous acid — the latter 
being a crude commercial form of acetic acid. The 
quicker the distillation the freer from impurities is the 
latter product. 

The alcohol (pyroxylic, or wood spirit,) is a cheap 
grade, smelling of smoke and tar, and is distilled at a 
high grade of temperature from the chloride of calcium, 
the other products being separated at a temperature 
below boiling point. 

The alcohol when refined has lost the odors which it 
had at first, so that it may be used in the manufacture of 
cheap perfumery. Its principal use, however, is in 
making varnishes. 

A fair orade of o^as is obtained, and is used in this 
case to illuminate the factory, which is running the year 
around, save when it is necessary to stop for repairs. 

The tar is insoluble and holds the more solid particles 



A Delaware l^alley Menu. 43 

in suspension. It is used for protecting fence posts and 
the exposed ends of timbers. 

All the products are salable commodities. The 
alcohol brings sixty-five cents per gallon wholesale ; the 
charcoal brings fifteen cents per bushel, and is also used 
in the furnaces ; the tar has a limited sale, A cord of 
wood, costing two dollars delivered, will produce forty 
bushels of charcoal and twenty gallons of alcohol. 

By the time our lecture and sight-seeing was finished, 
dinner was announced, and we turned from chemistry to 
cookery. 

The incjiu plainly in sight was : Cold roast beef, 
ham, eggs, pickled cucumbers, brown bread, wheat 
bread, crackers, apple sauce, ice cream and pie. You 
ran no risk of hearing "we're just out, very sorry," 
provided you ordered from the board. It took us an 
hour to do justice to the viands, and the sick ones, sick 
no longer, performed wonders in the eating line. Allen 
even committed the indiscretion of eating two plates of 
cream. 

Our waitress discovered herself to be a city-bred 
damsel from her want of knowledge of the locality and 
the condition of the river, as compared with other 
seasons. It would not do to overlook her noticeable 



44 Two Hundred Miles on the Delaware River. 

gracioLisness toward the Quartermaster, who had honeyed 
her into getting ready for us, notwithstanding the fact 
that she was dressed for an outing. 

During the meal the captain of the Nahhvi called for 
a plain, common every-day knife. This request is not 
to be understood as disparaging the ham, although the 
knife he was using — a plated affair — was the wrong tool 
for the work in hand. On finishincr, he remarked that 
he was afraid to eat very heartily as it interfered with 
paddling. Cooper, looking at him, cynically inquired, 
" Great Scott ! what do you call a hearty meal ? I'd like 
to know." 

We decided to reel off a few more miles before camp- 
ing, and a little after four o'clock we bade goodbye to 
the genial James and to Long Eddy and started off in a 
thunder shower, the heavy clashes reverberating from 
peak to peak as they passed down the valley. 

Just below the town we ran the worst rift of the day, 
all being hung up with the exception of Carter. Con- 
sequently, four of us were soaking wet. At half-past 
five o'clock we found ourselves a short distance above 
Callicoon, and, the rain having partially ceased, we halted 
at a pretty knoll on the Pennsylvania bank, and soon 
had our tents pitched under the trees. We had hardly 



After a Wet Day. 45 

■ finished pegging down when the rain commenced to 
pour down in torrents. Changing to dry clothes we 
were soon reading, writing, smoking and discussing the 
events of the day. At 10:30, sun-burned and sleepy, 
we "doused the glim," glad to rest after a day of 
pleasant experiences. 

As the least downfall of rain has a marked effect on 
the narrow river, we tied our boats securely, hoping for 
higher water and an easier passage. 



Chapter flit). 

AMENITIES. 
HINTS. 
SCENERY. 

COCHECTON FALLS. 
FATIGUES OF PORTAGE. 
A RUINED HABITATION. 
NARROWSBURG. 
HOTEL ARLINGTON. 
BIG EDDY. 




There was a roaring in the wind all night ; 

The rain came heavily and fell in floods ; 
But now the sun is rising, calm and bright ; 

The birds are singing in the distant woods. — Wordswor/h. 



O YOU fellows expect to get up to-day?" 
Thus were Cooper and I awakened by 
Donnelly at a little after six o'clock. "I 
don't care whether I do or not, as I am 
perfectly comfortable," answered my tent 
mate. 
In throwing" down the coverlet my hand came in con- 
tact with the canvas, soaked with moisture. "Ugh !" I 
exclaimed, and aeain snufjcrled under the warm blankets. 
A misty morning was bad enough, but a misty morn- 
ing after a rainy night? 'Twas a consummation not to 
be devoutly wished. 

In front of the camp Allen was trying to build a fire 
with wet wood, and I expected him to say he was 
smoking out a swarm of mosquitoes. But he didn't. 

4 49 



5© Two Hundred Miles on the Delazvare River. 

He simply looked anguish through a pair of watered 
optics. 

Some one whispered "kerosene." 

Chug. Chug. Up ran a blaze, and the lard in the pan 
was boiling in the time you are reading this paragraph. 

Carter was cleaning fish down by the water's edge. 
Donnelly was wrestling with dish washing. 

Such industrious examples must be heeded. Turning 
back the flaps of the tent. Cooper and I sunned our- 
selves a minute and then turned out. Something was 
wrong with us. We felt strange. What was wanting? 
Oh ! ah ! two simultaneous ejaculations. Two ditto 
actions. Walking in the damp grass our feet were 
again wet. We were content and happy. 

Cooper was soon imitating Dad, while I played an 
accompaniment with two preludes, following Allen and 
Donnelly. 

The grand finale was, bass fried to a delicious brown, 
eggs, bread and coffee. 

Striking tents was done in a leisurely manner, to give 
the sun a chance at our wet dunnage. Packing damp 
things on a cruise is a feature that even the individual 
crank agrees is disagreeable. 

Visitors in the shape of cattle invaded camp .nd 



Experiences hi Rifts and Currents. 5 1 

sniffed about half timidly, half resentfully, at our usurp- 
ing their domain. 

Embarking, we glided down a little rift at Hankins, 
and just below caught several heavy drops. Running 
rifts, getting hung up on rocks and gravel bars, losing 
the channel and wading, was the order of the day. We 
summed up thirty-three rifts at the end of the day's trip, 
including the more noticeable Cochecton Falls. 

At starting, we had a heavy wind at our backs, but 
the many twists and turns in our journey soon had us 
paddling dead against it. 

Not only did this make heavy work, but it also caused 
faulty judgment in running rifts, impeding progress; in 
swifter water this state of affairs would have caused 
many accidents, possibly necessitating a stoppage 
altogether. 

The reasons for exercising care in trimming canoes 
were now apparent. If too high in the bows, they would 
be blown about, and if the bows were down, the work 
would be harder, resulting also in wet craft. 

Carter, whose study of shallow currents extends over 
a long period, exhibited a knowledge and skill that was 
almost infallible. He would size up an opening for what 
it was worth, immediately, from the set of the current. 



52 Two Hundred Miles on the DeJaivare River. 

nature of rocks, amount and character of foam, etc., 
rejecting or accepting according to the indications. 
During the whole trip he was only at fault four or five 
times, and then not seriously. The Zerliiia came out 
without a scratch, and her captain with only an occa- 
sional wet foot. 

The scenery on this day varied from that of yesterday, 
the mountains rising rock-bound on the right, while the 
hills to the left disappeared far in the interior, where they 
form a part of the Catskill mountains. 

The fishinor was not so orood either, and the luck of 
our fishermen was not of the kind that furnished our 
morning-' s meal. 

We reached Callicoon sometime after eleven o'clock, 
and calculated from the maps to reach Narrowsburg by 
nioht. 

The toll-house at the bridge, the piles of lumber upon 
the sloping bank, and the low lying landscape, offered a 
fit scene for a photograph, and the camera was accord- 
ingly used to good effect. 

Between the island and the town we were borne on a 
swift current, rounding to at the lower end, opposite 
Hollister creek. Landing, the cameras were brought to 
bear upon a perfect pastoral scene, which lay spread 



Cochedon Falls. 53 

directly above us. It was a bit of hillside landscape that 
would have made a poem on canvas. 

At the end of the island is a shallow ferry, and teams 
are constantly passing from the New York to the Penn- 
sylvania shore. 

Close to Pennsylvania we discovered entrance to a 
rocky rift. We steered through in safety, and found 
ourselves traversing a stretch of wild and mountainous 
country. At Cochecton, the uncleared, rock-bound cliffs, 
retreating, form a veritable wilderness. And yet, just 
beyond the barrier, one finds fertile valleys and fine 
farms, a romantic combination, surely. 

Opposite the saw-mill we hauled over an obstruction 
in the shape of a log-boom. These booms are con- 
structed and maintained illegally, and, at least, should be 
swung so as to allow the passage of small craft. Rafts- 
men cut their way through the booms unhesitatingly, 
whenever they encounter them Just below, hidden 
from sight by a sharp bend, we could hear Cochecton 
Falls, the first really bad spot on the river. 

Drifting to the upper ledge, we landed for an inspec- 
tion. As we had anticipated, the rain of the night before 
had given us eight inches greater depth of water. This 
rise, however, was not sufficient to cover the rocks and 



54 Tzvo Hundred Miles on the Delaivare River. 

ledges that were scattered in profuse in the fall. Neither 
could we discover any decided channel in the swiftly 
rushinof torrent. 

To run through safely would be a matter of the 
purest luck. With our loaded canoes it would be 
foolish to take the risk. Carter, who had run it on a 
"fresh," stated that the danger was great enough even 
then. 

Enjoying a short rest, we entered our canoes, and 
passing over the first ledge, near the New York shore, 
landed on the huge table rock we found exposed. 
Enormous pot holes, worn by the action of gravel and 
water, were found in almost every rock in the ledge. 
We gathered the canoes at this point, and then guided 
them to a point half way down by means of bow and 
stern lines. Opposite the end of the fall was the worst 
place, and we had to "carry" over the rock to avoid it. 
Dropping the canoes into an extensive eddy, our task 
was completed. 

And right here, I may state that the boys firmly 
resolved to fall over a precipice, should we meet one, 
rather than make another like " carry." It was the 
hardest work we did during the whole trip, and com- 
pletely tired us for the rest of the day. 



Indian Memories. 55 

We were now traveling through what was at one tune 
Indian stamping ground. 

Cochecton is a corruption of the Lenapo Coque- 
thagechton, meaning "White Eyes," the name of a cele- 
brated Delaware chieftain. 

Had it not been for the Kind's Commissioners, we 
would from Cochecton onward have been passing 
between New Jersey and Pennsylvania. The boundary 
line between New Jersey and New York, surveyed 
from the original grants, ran to Station Point, in lati- 
tude 41' 40". The present line, below Port Jervis, was 
run in 1769. 

At noon, just above Cochecton, thinking to get some 
milk at a house thai appeared behind a cluster of trees 
on a bluff on our right, Cooper and I went ashore and 
pushed through the underbrush until xye came to a spring. 
From here a path led to the house. Clambering up, we 
reached the top only to meet with a scene of desolation. 

The house was tenantless ; doors were off hinges and 
windows broken. The out-buildings were delapidated ; 
Hoors broken, roofs dismantled and joists decayed. 

" Life and thought had gone away, 
Side by side, 

Leaving doors and windows wide, 
Careless tenants they." 



56 Tivo Hundred Miles on the Delazvare River. 

Gathering" some apples, and getting a delicious 
draught at the spring, we went back to the boats, and, 
for want of time to cook a meal, feasted on apples and 
bread. 

Narrowsburg was now our objective point. Although 
we paddled rather briskly, the village was always "just 
around the next bend" with us. At least, this was the 
invariable response given by the natives when we 
inquired the distance to a given place. It became quite 
a side issue with our party. 

At last we reached a point where, in rounding a bend, 
the river narrowed, and became so shallow that it looked 
as though we would have to carry across the gravel 
formation that jutted into the river from a hill on the 
right. 

Going to the left of some large rocks, however, we 
found a channel, down which we scraped, to emerge 
directly into a narrow, rocky gorge. A little further, 
and we were floating on a currentless body of water, 
deep and black in the mountain's shadow — " Big Eddy," 
properly named. For the first time during our trip, we 
had to paddle to keep up headway. We also remarked 
the sudden coolness in the temperature. 

Passing under the bridge, which is built out of the 



Ca mp a t Na rroit 'sb 21 rg. 57 

reach of the highest freshet, we pushed throug-h the 
foam-flecked water past numerous fishing- parties. 

At last, rounding an abrupt bend, we saw ahead a low 
lying island, to which we paddled in search of a camp site. 

The island affording no inducement for making a 
camp, we turned toward the grassy slopes on the Penn- 
sylvania shore, and, close to the dividing line between 
Wayne and Pike counties, pitched our camp. We were 
on the frontier. In the interior, and not so very far 
either, trout, bass, pickerel, deer, bear and grouse are in 
waiting for the hardy woodsman. 

It was now six o'clock, and the sun had left us for the 
day. As we were in need of provisions, we thought it 
expeditious to get supper in the village, and to make 
purchases. 

Donnelly, Allen and I unpacked and made ready for 
the night, while Carter and Cooper went over the bridge 
in search of a hotel. 

An hour later we, as the second detachment, repaired 
to the "Arlington," whither Carter had directed us, as 
host Gutheil was expecting a second invasion. Passing 
through the office and upstairs to the spacious dining- 
rooms, we found spread before us a meal in keeping 
with the surroundings. 



58 Tzvo Hiindred Miles on the Delaivare River. 

As if to enliven our tired wit, we found our guardian 
angel in the person of Fraulein Gutheil, business-like 
and efficient. Her laughing eyes, pearly teeth and 
vivacious manners were irresistable. 

Our grace before meat, each to the other, was 
in the language of Shakespeare, "God comfort thy 
capacity." 

The meal admitted of no disparaging comments. It 
was solid worth and squared by rule. We left, feeling 
at peace with the country and the house of Arlington. 
Besides, we carried away with us two substantial loaves 
of home-made bread, bestowed upon us as a special 
favor by Frau Gutheil, Of course, the intercession in 
our behalf of her worthy daughter had nothing to do 
with the case. 

Takinpf a short walk, we saw the sights and made 
some purchases, and then went back to camp by the 
mountain path bathed in a flood of moonlight. To right 
and left, before and behind, the steep hills formed a 
mountain pocket, containing a vast body of water, the 
outlet from which, in our position, we could not discover. 

On reaching camp, we found the boys had made a 
cheerful fire, the night being cool and promising frost. 

From a native, who dropped in on us, we learned that 



A Delazvare River Eddy. 59 

the pool in front of our camp was sixty-five feet deep 
and absolutely without current. This is owing to the 
curious formation of the valley above and below, and 
the great depth at the bend. During high water there 
are two eddies so great that rafts running the river have 
not sufficient momentum to carry them through the dead 
water. Consequently, the rafts have to be towed until 
they reach the downward current. 

For this purpose ropes are carried to the island, 
opposite the bend, down which the raftsmen walk with 
their tow. This is the only spot, from Arkville to 
Trenton, where this haulingr has to be done. 

During the rafting season, the vicinity of the eddy is 
one of great activity, and not a little confusion. 

Turning in after a day of labor, we took a last look 
at the orb of night hanging over the motionless waters 
of "Big Eddy." It was a picture not likely to be for- 
gotten — too enchanting to be easily dismissed from the 
memory. 



Chapter \D. 

A DELAWARE HIGHLANDS MORNING. 

A DAY OF COMPARISONS. 

WILD SCENERY. 

RIVER CURRENTS. 

MASTHOPE RIFT. 

BLOOMING GROVE PARK. 

LACKAWAXEN. 

SHOOTING THE DAM. 

SHOHOLA. 

A BAD RIFT. 

CAMP-FIRE REVERIES. 



These, as they change, Almighty Pather, these 
Are but the varied God. — Thomson. 





P YE sluggards, and see the day break !" It 
was Carter calling, and, heeding him, I turned 
out. 

The morning was crisp and frosty. Allen 
was already out, and Cooper, sleepy and 
barefoot, soon followed suit. And Don- 
nelly? Deep down in a board-thick army blanket 
that canoeist lay fast asleep. The cows might have 
been in the corn, the sun melting icicles, or the Boojum 
Snark invading the Gurzigazoon, but Donnelly was 

dreamino-. 

The night had been cool. Wood was scarce in our 
locality, and the camp-fire embers were long since cold. 
So toward morning I buried my head, ears and nose in 
the warmth of a thick-knitted Tam o' Shanter. 

While we were busying ourselves with early morning 

63 



64 Two Hundred Miles on the Delaicare River. 

camp duties the sun burst in radiance over the eastern 
hills, flooding the camp with warmth, and the surround- 
ing valley with brightness. 

The morning was a typical Delaware Highlands morn- 
ing, and we were in high feather, glad that we were 
alive. 

The evolutions of the trio. Carter, Donnelly and 
Allen, in getting arrayed for breakfast at the hotel, com- 
manded attention. All on account of the pretty waitress. 
Cooper and I at our ease, en deshabille, cooked a hearty 
camp breakfast of potatoes, eggs, onions and coffee, 
with delicious home-made bread and Orange county 
butter. 

After our meal Cooper, taking the Nahiwi, paddled 
above the camp for an exposure, getting the bridge and 
Big Eddy, looking down stream. 

The absent ones returned to the fold about eight 
o'clock. An hour later we were packed and afloat, 
taking with us pleasant recollections of a pleasant camp- 
ing spot. 

Anticipating the narrative, we made camp at 5:30 
o'clock in the afternoon, just before reaching Parker's 
Glen, having made eighteen miles from the time of 
leaving Narrowsburg. 



Comparisofis. 65 

For weather and rapids, it v/as a day to be remem- 
bered. Keeping account of the latter, we ran thirty-one, 
big and Httle, without a single mishap. 

The weather and scenery also vied with each other, 
and each in its different way contributed to our enjoy- 
ment. For comparative study we had sunshine and 
peaceful stretches of farm land ; we had sun-showers 
and rolling, pine-covered hills ; we had thunder storms 
and clouds, and rugged, rocky mountain cliffs. 

In the river we encountered quiet currents and foam- 
lashed, thunder-booming torrents. For extremes, we 
had Big Eddy and Lackawaxen Dam ; for intermediates 
Tusten Rift and Shohola Falls. 

But to retrace our steps. Below Narrowsburg we 
entered a long, shallow rift with a crooked channel, 
which finally flowed close under the foot of the moun- 
tain. We got through safely, and during the day ran 
rifts so continually that we were on a constant strain 
taking care of our canoes. 

An explanation is in place right here. A keel canoe 
is the proper one for river cruising. The keel should 
be broad, flat and of tough wood, for the river bed is 
composed of gravel and boulders, on which, in shallow 
water, the canoe is constantly pounding. 

5 



66 Tzvo Hundred Miles on the Delaware River. 

As we drifted onward, the wildness and grandeur of 
our surroundingrs became more marked. 

High and ever-changing hills and mountain ranges 
loomed about us on every hand. Far away in the dis- 
tance faint outlines of southern hills were traceable. 

From Narrowsburg to Lackawaxen there still remains 
a famous bass fishing section. Those caught by our 
fishermen were numerous and larore. And one and all 
discussed the feasability of a fishing camp at some future 
time. A two or three weeks' stay would ensure plenty 
of sport at this season of the year with both rod and 
gun. 

On either hand extend forests of pine, beech, hemlock 
and chestnut. The lumber interests are valuable, and 
with the farm lands in the fertile valleys, which the 
mountain streams make numerous, and the slate and 
stone quarries, form the industries of the settlers. 

Where the Erie railroad crosses the river, at Tusten, 
or Pine Grove, we met with a heavy rift somewhat 
dangerous on account of its formation. We had marked, 
from the car window, on our ride to Hancock, a ledo-e 
of rocks from shore to shore, just under the bridge. 
It seemed shallow, and we were dubious about getting 
through. Actually in the rift, we found more water than 



Traveling the Delaware. 67 

appeared from a distance. In the waters below the rift 
as we shot through, Donnelly hooked a fine pickerel. 

After getting a photograph, we paddled down to a 
small rift, in which Cooper provokingly broke his paddle. 
How it happened, he was at a loss to know ; it might 
have been injured in the heavier water at Tusten. For- 
tunately, it was a long split, which was spliced and 
wrapped as we floated down stream. 

We floated throupfh two or three little rushes, durino- 
the paddle-mending incident, but finally had to complete 
it hastily, as we were bearing down on a heavier rift. 

In traveling the Delaware, it behooves the voyageur 
to be careful and wide-awake at all times. He never 
knows the kind of water ahead. A diff^erent stage of 
water, either lower or higher, completely changes the 
formation, and even the location of the smaller rifts and 
falls. Their channels and dangerous ledges also may 
be changed from a few feet to the entire width of the 
river. To drift down stream broad-side, or with unjointed 
blades, is the height of recklessness. 

Late in the morning we reached Masthope. This 
little place (noted for its stone quarries) can hardly be 
passed by the traveler on the Delaware without remark- 
ing its peculiar surroundings. 



68 Tzvo H^mdred Miles on the Dclaivare River. 

On the right, just before entering swift water, Mast- 
hope creek tumbles into the larger body ; below, on the 
bank, stands a grove of cedars, each trunk as stiff and 
orderly as if belonging to a detachment of pickets. On 
the opposite bank rises rocky pine-clad cliffs. Ahead is 
Big Cedar Rift, a mile and a half long. Entering this 
the bend places the town at your back. As we began 
to feel the force of the current the sky clouded and a 
few drops of rain fell. 

We found the rift a bad one, the fall being great and 
the volume of water heavy. Add to this length of the 
rift its uncertain channel and rocky ledges, and it would 
be bad enough on a clear day. 

On this day the combination was anything but pleas- 
ant. Before rounding the last bend, from which the foot 
was visible, we several times rested in the friendly eddies 
that form on the lower side of exposed rocks. 

Once through, we had better water, and during a 
paddle of three miles were skirting the game and fish 
preserves of the Blooming Grove Park association, and 
the Pike County Hunting and Fishing club. 

These associations own about twenty-eight thousand 
acres of the choicest waters and estates in this region, 
embracing some magnificent scenery. 



Lackaivaxcn Dam. 69 

Overlooking the river and commanding a grand view 
of the fertile valley, the associations have large and 
finely-appointed club houses. 

Opposite the boat landing, a rugged, pine-clad hill of 
gray rock rises from the depths. A curious feature is a 
growth of gnarled pines, whose tenacious roots find sub- 
stance in the frost-split interstices. 

A number of photographs were taken of the exquisite 
bits of landscape that rapidly came into view. 

Around the bend we scraped over a bar that extends 
to the slack water above Lackawaxen. The sudden 
entrance to the beautiful country about this station is 
sure to occasion outbursts of admiration. In our case 
the view was enhanced by the breaking away of rain 
clouds, and the appearance of the sun to lighten up the 
peaceful scene. The face of the country partakes of the 
placidity of the huge volume of water, which is held back 
by an enormous dam, just below the mouth of the creek. 

Lackawaxen is a great summer resort, and the country 
round-about contains many points of interest. 

While driftinof down, we had lunch, and at one o'clock 
lined up along the right-hand bank below the large white 
hotel, the Delaware House, and above the sluiceway 
throup^h the dam. 



70 Two Hundred Miles on the Dclazvare River. 

The Delaware and Hudson canal, beginning at Hones- 
dale, Pennsylvania, follows the windings of the Lacka- 
waxen river to its mouth, crosses the Delaware river, 
and continues in New York state, by way of Delaware 
river, to Port Jervis, and then along the foot of the 
sinuous Shawangunk mountain range to Eddyville on 
Rondout creek. 

The dam built across the river at this point is owned 
by the Delaware and Hudson canal company. It is 
sixteen feet high, constructed in the most approved 
scientific manner, to secure strength. 

During the rafting season, the opening for rafts is in 
the center. 

Many stories of hair-breadth escapes in running this 
shute are told by all old raftsmen, and the spot is indeed 
a dangerous one, so much so that the company, which is 
a private corporation, is held responsible by the two 
states for all accidents to rafts incurred while groino- 
through. During the season a pilot is furnished, whose 
duty it is to take charge until each raft is safely through. 
Notwithstanding this many accidents occur, as the least 
faulty judgment in the mad rush will break up the mass 
of timber in a twinklino-. 

The drop during a "fresh" is very great, causing a 



Shooting the Dam. 71 

long raft to make such a bend that the bow-man cannot 
see the steersman until the raft straightens out. The 
plunge is so severe that the forward end goes completely 
under, drenching all hands. 

We found the sluiceway on the right shore nearly 
closed by a temporary wing to facilitate repairs. 

The opening was only twelve feet wide, through which 
the water shot at surprising speed. We judged the rate 
to be about a mile per minute. The solid volume of 
water held itself compact for a distance of fifteen feet, 
with a drop of eight feet, taken in two inclines. 

This huge wave then bore straight downward, by its 
force sending upward two boat lengths away a foamer 
sixteen feet in height. Swift rough water followed, 
between the bank and the first wing, in which racks of 
slabs are anchored to protect the river bed, A swift 
shoot under the bridofe, ending in a wave-filled tail-race, 
completes the description. 

After some reconnoitering, and testing the channel 
with heavy oak slabs, which were whisked into the foam 
in a twinkling, we decided upon our course. 

Carter took it first, in the Zerlina, Allen catchincr a 
photograph as he was in the act of breaking through the 
crest. 



72 Two Hundred Miles on the Delazvare River. 

Cooper followed the leader, first removing' camera and 
blankets. He went over safely, although his broken 
blade was twisted in two, leaving him to finish with half 
a paddle. 

Donnelly and the Nahkvi followed suit in safety. 

It was a great feat, and one of which to be proud. 
The sight, too, was a pretty one, and full of life. Away 
above the edge the blades of the paddles flashed in the 
sunlight. Instantly the canoe appears, the occupant's 
face worthy of study as he braces himself for the shock 
and its results — g-ood or bad. Ouick as a camera 
shutter drops, the boat and her crew were pitched from 
the wave into the crest, held aloft for an instant, reveal- 
ing the boat's bottom from stem to stern ; then breaking 
through, dropped into the swift water. 

It is over the minute you reach the edge, but you are 
in the grasp of a demon, and you hold your breath hard. 
A slip, an upset, and the cribs, ballast and spike-strewn 
logs below may determine the commencement of a cruise 
into the great unknown, on a pink cloud, in the ethereal 
blue. 

Rounding the cribs below, the race is run and a deep 
eddy welcomes the bonny craft. 

The Werowance being only twelve feet by twenty-six 



SJwJiola and Vichiity. 73 

inches beam, Allen decided not to take the risk, and so 
slid over the fishway. 

Below the bridge we stopped and effected needed 
repairs. Cooper recovered the lost blade and renewed 
his paddle by cutting' back and resetting the ferrule. 
The only inconvenience was due to its shortening. 
There were more rifts as we continued, but after our 
recent shaking up they appeared tame. The river 
became narrow, flowing through a veritable gate in the 
mountain. The country was wild, rolling from range to 
range as far as eye could see. 

At 3:45 o'clock in the afternoon we ran ashore at 
Shohola, under clouds and in rain. 

We were all in good spirits and hungry. Facing the 
river was the Spring House. Provisions with us were 
low. Proceeding on our journey meant a damp camp 
and a damp bit of cookery. Bunching canoes, we had a 
call of the roll. Too tempting. All lazy. Result — we 
stopped for dinner. 

At the house we were very nicely served. It should be 
a fine summer retreat, for, besides its nearness to all points 
of interest, it commands a fine view of the river and valley. 

The vicinity of Shohola is noted for its mountain 
scenery. The Glen, containing wonderful cascades, 



74 Tzvo Hundred Miles 07i the Delaivare River. 

waterfalls and rocky caverns, is but a short distance 
from the town. Hardby are several trout streams, 
havine their sources in the Sullivan Hicrhlands. 

Although it was rather early, we fared well, and three- 
quarters of an hour after landing, five cruisers were 
replete with five different portions of potatoes, eggs, 
beef, tomatoes, pudding, pie and coffee. 

It continued raining, but it was all in the experience. 
Clad in oilskins, we proceeded until we got hung up in 
what someone remarked was "mid-chick" rift. It 
merged into the well-known Shohola falls so suddenly 
that its growth from a chicken to a full-sized fighting- 
cock permitted no intermediate stage. 

As Carter was leading through he bumped broadside 
against a submerged rock. His agility in getting out 
saved an upset. Each canoeist picked a channel as best 
he could. The place was narrow and thickly strewn 
with rocks, the current swift, and the turns frequent and 
sharp. We struck repeatedly. At the last rush, 
Donnelly and Cooper were both carried down on the 
Nahiwi, and all labored through together, waves from 
three to four feet high, and choppy from conflicting cur- 
rents, swashed us from stem to stern, but the little 
Werowance behaved herself nobly. 



The Camp Fire. 75 

Still there were more to follow. We took them and 
the attendant wetting until half-past five, when we came 
across a camp site at the base of the canal bank. 

It was a level, grassy place, in rather low ground, but 
we could drive tent pegs, without the difficulty hereto- 
fore encountered. Hauling out, we soon had the tents 
erected in a half circle with a camp-fire place in the 
opening. 

It was showering fitfully, but we had hopes of its dis- 
continuance. Foraging parties soon had a pile of hard- 
wood ties and planks, and a lasting fire was scientifically 
laid. When the blaze became a glowing, we drew our 
chairs within the warmth, enjoying it immensely, and 
drying wet garments. Cooper and I took a river bath 
in the swift flow at the foot of camp, and then added a 
hot shampoo. 

The Quartermaster got up an impromptu lunch for 
the party, finding the delicacies from his ample store. 
He explained that he must do something to lighten his 
load for the morrow's paddle. 

The country through which we traveled this day was 
entirely different in point of scenery from that of previous 
days. We skirted pine-clad hills and rocky cliffs, and 
pleasant sloping bluffs. All about our camp were wild 



76 Two Htindred Miles 07i the Delaware River. 

hills. Opposite, on a heavy grade, ran the tracks of the 
Erie railroad. We could hear the engines puff and the 
wheels slip, and see the reflected glow from the fires as 
the furnace doors were thrown back. 

From Lackawaxen to Port Jervis we were to be 
accompanied by the Delaware and Hudson canal, with 
the ever-attendant noise of horns and shoutino-s, together 
with the choice vocabulary of captains and mule drivers. 

We greatly enjoyed the camp-fire. After the trying 
experiences of the clay the rest and cheerfulness was 
welcomed by all. 

I do not doubt but that every cruiser and camper 
counts as lost the night passed without the blaze of the 
camp fire, whether the blaze be great or small. To the 
party grouped about, it lends a fluency to conversation 
as it leaps and crackles and glows red in the darkness. 
To the solitary cruiser it is a companion. Its warmth 
and light prevents feelings of loneliness and longing. 
To the dreamer and the poet it lends visions and 
language. As its flames break forth, or its thin curls of 
smoke twine aloft, it becomes a most trustworthy con- 
fidant. What reflections it reveals ! what faces ! what 
forms it conjures up ! It smokes and smoulders at 
starting, as you sit before it delving into the dim past. 



Attendant Visions. 77 

It brightens and warms as your impulses deal with 
thoughts of the present. It is a sympathetic friend. 
You would see into the future ? Your mind, unsatisfied, 
gives up the task, and the fire in sympathy settles and 
sighs, tries to resume the thread, flickers and leaves you 
with your vain quest in confusing darkness. It is out 
and you retire. Secrets uttered aloud it remembereth 
not. Joys and sorrows it never repeats. 



Cbaptcr m. 



A DREAM. 

POETRY. 

A HOT DAY. 

PARKER'S GLEN. 

LOST CHANNEL RIFT. 

MONGAUP FALLS. 

HEAVY WATER. 

BAPTISING A CANOE. 

BUTLER'S FALLS. 

ABOVE PORT JERVIS. 

TRI-STATE MONUMENT. 

MARKING A BOUNDARY LINE. 

GEOLOGICAL FORMATIONS. 

GLIMMER GLASS. 

A LITTLE FRENCH. 



On sunny slope and beechen swell, 

The shadowed light of evening fell ; 

And, where the maple's leaf was brown, 

With soft and silent lapse came down, 

The glory, that the wood receives, 

At sunset, in its golden leaves. — Lojigfeliow. 



N ODD dream disturbed my sleep toward 
morning. Connecting the threads, it worked 



itself out about as follows : 

I dreamed that after the night's camp we 

had packed canoes and journeyed onward. 

Having gone but a short distance, we ran 

down to a small fishery in a wide arm of the river. As 

we reached the gravel, the following was noted at a 

glance : 

Close to the water's edge lay a tangled net, two wheel- 
barrows, and two piles of freshly-caught fish. Slightly 
to the left we saw two burly fishermen berating each 
other with tong-ues and fists. 

As we drifted down, I imagined I heard Cooper sing 

6 8i 




82 Two Hundred Miles 07i the Delatvare River. 

out, "A nice way to start the morning, pardners ! What's 
the row?" 

Both contestants, seemingly anxious for arbitration, 
ran toward us. 

Said one, " D'ye see surs, Bill he wouldn't divide the 
catch fair, and kept all the big wans," 

"I didn't neither," chimed in Bill, "Besides, don't I 
own the net?" 

" A heap you'd a got widi yer net if I hadn't a helped 
ye. 

"Now, listen to 'm," sarcastically ejaculated number 
two. 

"Ain't I right, gentlemen?" 

" I leave it you, if he has divided fair." 

All the above was said thick and fast, and we got 
more information from the surroundinofs than from the 
jargon. 

" Court will come to order," said Donnelly in mock 
severity. "Go ahead with the summing up, Dad." 

We had drifted into shore with Carter in the center, 
Donnelly and Allen on his left, and Cooper and I up 
stream. 

Judge, jury, court constables, stenographers and 
notary, with two prosecutors, who were likewise defend- 



Cy-pres. 83 

ants and plaintiffs from and of themselves, we proceeded 
with the celebrated case. 

Each of the principals repeated his story with glowing 
looks, making a few additions to his first outburst. 

When each had finished, Judge Carter, for the time 
being, recounted as follows : 

"Gentlemen, you are both right" (here the two 
worthies looked quizzical), "and you are both wrong " 
(here they looked indignant). "Taking the case at its 
present status, one charges dishonesty in the division 
of the haul. The other claims the right to the larger 
share from ownership of the net. To this latter claim 
the matter of assistance is used as an offset. 

"Gentlemen, these points in the case I do not con- 
sider warrant attention from the force of circumstances. 
We will overlook them, and pursue another course in 
the solution of the controversy. From appearances, I 
take it that you are neighbors, depending upon one 
another for many small favors in daily life. You have 
lived peaceably for a long time. Why should you not 
continue to do so ? You both live and breathe the free 
air which a great and good God, having required you to 
need, supplies in abundance. You have to fight no one 
for it. It is natural for you. You breathe it, and, I 



84 Two Hundred Miles on the Delaivare River. 

have no doubt, forget to thank Him to whom you are 
indebted. 

"Together, you, in friendliness, came here for fish, 
both for food and to convert them by sale into money, 
with which to purchase articles needful to life. These 
fish are not yours ; you did not place them here ; you 
have asked permission of no one ; you just come and 
appropriate that which enables you to get greater per- 
sonal comforts. And the result : having netted a goodly 
supply, you forget everything — friendship, charity, equity 
— for selfishness." 

The most righteous judge turned toward the jury as 
if to ask a verdict, but of this there was no need. The 
verdict, in accordance with truth and justice, had been 
anticipated, even by the untutored fishermen. 

From anger the mind of each man had turned to doubt, 
and from doubt to enlightenment and remorse Before 
Carter had ceased speaking I saw them making up in 
characteristic style, the net owner throwing all the big 
fish over to the smaller pile, amid protestations from his 
companion, both muttering rude apologies. They then 
loaded the barrows, each assisting the other as gleefully 
as two school boys on a frolic, each claiming also the 
right to bear the additional burden of the net. 



Good Prose vers2is Bad Poetry. 85 

This settled, they generously helped each other up the 
steep incline to the plateau above. 

My feet had pushed through the blankets and against 
the cold, damp tent, sending a " chilly flow " along my 
vertebra. This may account for the dream. 

I lost no time in folding them in the warmth of the 
blankets, and lay musing over the foregoing deduc- 
tions. 

Outside, the "foggy, foggy dew " was slowly drifting 
up stream, blown by a faint breeze. 

Tinkle, tinkle, tinkle. Down the tow-path, close by, 
comes an early canal boat with its team of mules, its 
captain and the muleteer. We are objects of curiosity 
to all the animated creatures until a bend hides us from 
view. 

We got breakfast by the embers of last night's camp- 
fire, using chairs for tables and rocks for seats. 

Cleaning up and loading canoes occupied our time, 
according to rule, Carter meanwhile quoting snatches 
of poetry. At this we wondered, as Carter's opinion, 
candidly expressed, is "I have no use for a man who 
murders good prose in order to express himself by bad 
versification." 

We were afloat as the sun broke throuorh the mist. 



86 Tzvo Hundred Miles 07i the Delaware River. 

Hot ? Don't mention it. 

At Parker's Glen we stopped to get a photograph of 
a natural waterspout that shot some fifty feet in air. It 
made its exit from the bowels of the earth through a 
fissure in the rock. The spout was on a bluff above the 
river, with a dark-green mountain side for a background. 
The gentle morning breeze dissipated the falling stream 
into misty arches, the sun completing the spectacle by 
transforming the whole into miniature rainbows. 

Nestling in the pines, among the hills, and command- 
ing a wide sweep of glen and river, we noticed a large 
hotel and several dwelHngs. 

Opposite the village we ran an unusual kind of rift. 
There was no definite channel, and we were compelled 
to dodge in and out among sharp rocks as best we could 
until through. From shore to shore the current swept 
resistless, apparently of uniform depth, broken and 
riffled from countless causes. We dubbed it Lost 
Channel Rift. 

During the day's journey the channel led us under 
immense rocky cliffs, rising first from one side of the 
river and then from the other, the Pennsylvania side, 
however, being the more precipitous. Scraggly pine 
trees covered the hillside. 



Mongaup Falls. 87 

The rifts we found very shallow, and with sharp 
descents, winding up at the foot in chop cross-currents 
with turbulent waves. 

Thus we traveled, encountering in some places two 
or three descents in quick succession. The bends, too, 
were sharper and more frequent. 

At ten o'clock we were skirting the canal wall at Pond 
Eddy. Just beyond the village, Allen obtained a fine 
picture, the rock-bound ending of a rolling mountain 
range. 

Two miles further down the river, and we heard a 
heavy booming that caused us to train our eye-sight 
ahead. 

In the distance we could see a narrow, rocky channel, 
down which the foam-lashed volume poured with such 
force that waves six feet in height were formed. And 
this is Mongaup Falls. It is not long, but it is very 
juicy, what there is of it, and, as the boy said, there is 
lots of it, such as it is. The river and town of the same 
name lay on the right. 

Our experience at this point proved a rough teacher. 
We had grown so familiar with "rifts" that we wel- 
comed them merely as helps in our journey. We 
had as yet no thought of recurring to our lap covers, 



88 Tivo Hundred Miles on the Delaware River. 

not having met with currents sufficiently heavy to 
swamp us. 

However, we were destined to grow famihar with 
sterner things. The heavier body of water obliterated 
the rifts, and falls were now to engage our combined 
tact and strength — Mongaup, Butler's, Sawyer's, Butter- 
milk, Bull's Island, Wells', Scudder's and Trenton. At 
Mongaup we strung out, the Zerlina in the lead, then 
Werozvance, Nyleptha, Nahiwi, and the Quartermaster, 
the latter trolling. Incidentally, he hooked a fine bass 
in the deep water, carrying it through only to lose it 
when hauling it in at the foot of the fall. 

As the Nahiwi shot in, she went down over the crest, 
and then upward on a wave that made me lean back 
with bated breath. I threw my weight aft as far as pos- 
sible to keep her nose out of the wave crests, but it was 
a failure. The canoe shipped enough of the second one 
to make her pitch log-like into the next. In the third 
she was awash completely. I kept her straight until out 
of the worst of it, and then made for a rocky point on 
the right. 

We reached shallow water just in time for the canoe 
to gracefully settle on the bottom with all on board. 

It was over in a short space of time, and accomplished 



Butler s Falls. 89 

so neatly that we laughed over the incident merely at its 
recollection. We all cauoht it, and had to bail out 
canoes for the first time since startingf. 

Here I must digress to state that in these falls Don- 
nelly's handsome Bowdish canoe was christened, in a 
baptism of violence, Eidalia Moiigaup. She started 
out a new boat, and nameless. We had partially 
known her as Eiiialia, in honor of the parlor car in 
which we traveled to Hancock. The latter addition, 
later in the trip, gave such a classical Indian- German 
finish that it was irresistable. And as for the sex, if in 
this respect there is any doubt, the Lily Gaup settles it 
forever. 

Almost in the shadow of Hawk's Nest Peak, at the 
head of the usual bend, we ran Butler's Falls, deep 
and rough. This is a bad place, owing to the unnatural 
confinement of the waters by the high canal wall. 
The worst waves can be avoided by veering to the 
right after taking the entering pitch, but one is liable 
to catch the side waves over the gunwale. The plunge 
at the foot cannot be avoided. The easiest way, and 
that giving the sport desired, is to ride the heavy waves 
in the channel. 

A short distance up the side of the cliff winds the 



9© Two Hundred Miles on the Delatvare River. 

road, and a couple of farmers stopped to watch our tiny 
barks ride the crests, uttering exclamations in open- 
mouthed astonishment. From the height our canoes 
must, indeed, have seemed small. 

Out of this, and running a short, smooth reach, we 
met with Sawyer's, or Sawmill Falls. We worked our 
passage through its long and heavy right-hand channel, 
until we labored under the railroad bridge. 

In a cove at the base of Prospect Hill range, out of 
the winds and waves, we crathered to rest. Here, where 
the waves gently lapped the rocks, we found a native 
fisherman snugly ensconced, luring the gamey bass from 
the swift channel beyond. 

While resting and taking appreciative views of the 
landscape spread before us, we noticed, high above 
on the cliffside, covered with moss, ferns and pines, a 
"flying buttress." The whole was so catchy that a 
couple of photographs were taken. 

As we pushed out into the stream we were mere 
specks in the turbulent, narrow channel at the foot of 
the rocky range. The surroundings can easily be likened 
to one of the Colorados noted canons. At the end of 
the gorge we floated to the crest of a smooth, shallow 
incline, down which we glided, bringing up under the 



Port Jcrvis and Viciiiify. 91 

bridge at Port Jervis. We were glad to get out of the 
hot sun, and counted the completion of seventy-five 
miles of what was turning out to be a most delightful 
vacation cruise. 

Hauling out canoes, we went up into town for needed 
supplies; to the shoe-dealer's (wading is hard on the 
foot gear) ; to the post-office, for word from the dear 
ones at home, and praying to receive no urgent recall 
to business duties ; to the express-office, for Allen's 
extra blades, and to ship home the dry plates containing 
precious materialized memories. 

"Port," as the town is familiarly called in the region 
adjacent, has a population of fifteen thousand souls, and 
is the central point from which can be reached numerous 
summer resorts. Stage lines to mountain retreats in 
the three states do a thriving business in summer. The 
Monticello railroad branch also has considerable traffic. 
In view of its industries — railroad shops, manufactories, 
etc. — the town holds rank with other larger cities in New 
York state. As for the scenery, the view from the rail- 
road, just before entering the town is one long to be 
remembered, so peaceful and romantic withal. 

Hiofh Point, to the eastward, and not far from Milford, 
Pennsylvania, in a direct line, is a noted resort among the 



92 Tzvo Hundred Miles on the Delaivare River. 

Shawangunk mountains (or shaw'n-gum in the vernacu- 
lar). Here the valley begins to widen ; low sloping 
swells, brown in the autumn, could be clearly traced. 
Valleys and pleasant nooks are synonymous with the 
name of Neversink. Minisink Plain is just beyond the 
range, and this in itself brings recollections of times 
agone. 

The day was not far advaced, and we decided to make 
Milford, seven miles below, in time to camp. Milford is 
reached from Port Jervis by the "White Hat" stage line, 
over a hard mountain road. 

But we are not going that way. Just below the 
bridge, and the town, the river is cut up by gravel bars. 
Consequently, a rocky and shoal rift is met, which con- 
tinues to the mouth of the Neversink river. 

At this junction the southwest boundary of southern 
New York state comes to an ang-le, and turns due west 
(475 feet). West of this point, in the center of the 
Delaware river, lies imbedded the corner-stone between 
New York, New Jersey and Pennsylvania. Across the 
mouth of the Neversink, the northwest boundary of 
New Jersey, comes to a point. Looking westward, the 
center of Pike county, the beginning of the north 
boundary of Pennsylvania pokes its nose into a point. 



The Tri- State Rock. 93 

Here in New York state the Delaware and Hudson 
canal winds off on its way to Rondout and the Hudson, 
while the Erie railroad curves up on its way to Buffalo. 
The extreme southern angle of the state has its vertex 
in the local cemetery. 

Running our canoes into a bank of sand, we landed 
on the point in New York, to view like other curiosity 
seekers the Tri-State Rock, situated on the very termi- 
nation of a rocky formation, and also to see the bound- 
ary monument, 72^ feet above it, on a rising knoll. 

Fifteen years ago the stone that was originally erected 
to mark the outlines, was carried away by a freshet. 
After that a brass rod, havingr the lines sunken on the 
flat surface, was mortised into the rock. In 1882 the 
present mark was affixed to the rock by the joint com- 
mission of the three states, appointed by the governors 
to perpetuate the record. 

To the present generation the boundary line carries a 
deep significance, being as it is the straight line between 
savagery and civilization. As we viewed the fettered 
surroundings, our minds reverted to the pristine beauty 
of the place when the red men hunted, fished and roamed 
at will, beaching their canoes at the rocky point, even as 
we had, to form their nightly camp. 



94 



Ttvo Hundred Miles on the Delazvare River. 



The monument on the knoll is of polished granite, 
and has carved upon its face the following : 



NEW YORK 

BOUNDARY MONUMENT. 

1882 



NEW JERSEY 

BOUNDARY 

MONUMENT. 

1882 



HENRY R. PIERSON. 

ELIAS W. LEAVENWORTH. 

CHAUNCEY M. DEPEW. 



ABRAHAM BROWNING. 

THOMAS N. McCARTER. 

GEORGE H. COOKE. 



COMMISSIONERS. 



COMMISSIONERS. 



H. W. CLARKE 
SURVEYOR. 



THE CORNER-STONE BETWEEN NEW YORK k 



PENNSYLVANIA 



IS IN THE CENTRE OF THE 



DELAWARE RIVER, 475 FEET 



DUE WEST OF THE TRI-STATE ROCK. 



E. A. BOWSER 
SURVEYOR. 

SOUTH, 84 DEGREES W. 

72^ FT. FROM THIS IS 

THE TRT-STATE ROCK WHICH IS THE 

NORTH-WEST END OF THE 

NEW YORK & NEW JERSEY 

BOUNDARY AND THE NORTH 
END OF THE NEW JERSEY & 

PENNSYLVANIA BOUNDARY. 



Facing westerly. 



Facing easterly. 



Historical. 9 5 

The boundary line between New York and New 
Jersey was long a subject of dispute. In 1774, the 
assemblies of the colonies of New York and New Jersey 
(Nova Caesarea) appointed commissions for the pur- 
pose of confirming titles and possessions. The commis- 
sioners for New York were, William Wickham and 
Samuel Gale ; for New Jersey, John Stevens and Walter 
Rutherford. 

Under the joint commission the present boundary line 
was run by two surveyors, representing the two states. 
Their certificate corrected the old survey "by staking 
that from the station rock, marked on the west side of 
Hudson river, in the latitude of forty-one degrees, to 
the fork or branch formed by the junction of the stream, 
or waters called the Machockemack, with the river called 
Delaware, or Fishkill." 

The trees along the line of the new survey were 
marked with a blaze and five notches under the same. 
At a distance of one mile apart, forty-eight stone monu- 
ments were set, each containing on its north side the 
words " New York," and on the south side the words 
" New Jersey." The total distance was forty-eight miles 
and thirty-eight chains. 

From the boundary monument the view is grand. To 



96 Two Hund7-ed Miles on the Delaivare River. 

US it was like bursting from the mountains and beholding 
the pleasant paths of peace. Close at hand, forming a 
charming picture, the Neversink merged with the Dela- 
ware. It was a diorama of one of nature's most lavish 
moods. 

Ahead the country spread out into far-reaching hills 
and fertile plains, forming, in the sunlight, as Cooper 
remarked, a perfect Scotch landscape. 

" Never did sun more beautifully sleep 
In his first splendor, valley, rock, or hill ; 
Ne'er saw I, never felt, a calm so deep ! 
The river glideth at its own sweet will." 

We traveled in this section during the best part of a 
pleasant afternoon, skirting the base of the Highland 
Range foot hills. As we proceeded, we found that we 
had left the mountains. We picked up the lost thread 
below Milford, when we met with the continuation of 
the Appalachian chain, the Blue mountains, about W^ater 
Gap. Thence the valley widens for two or three miles, 
the ranges disappear and are gradually left behind. 
We passed several islands and plenty of pretty scenes, 
which were lost and found at the rounding of each 
successive bend. 

After leaving Port Jervis, we noticed for a long dis- 



Geological. 97 

tance a very remarkable geological formation, that lay 
exposed above water-mark. It had the appearance of 
having been at one time subjected to melting heat, and 
then agitated so that it had taken on jagged and wave- 
like forms (or outlines) before cooHng. 

We were still traveling in the limestone section 
belonging to the upper Helderberg epoch, but this was 
the first appearance of Cherty limestone beds with the 
hornstone exposed. 

The action of the water had worn away the limestone, 
leaving the peculiar conglomerate. Inside the knodules 
we found a liquid pitch, supposedly caused by the sun's 
heat. 

At five o'clock we drifted into the wide arm of the 
river at Milford, finding the exact counterpart of Feni- 
more Cooper's word picture of the Glimmerglass. The 
minutest shadow was reflected with exactness, and not 
a ripple broke the surface to the next bend. We 
pitched our tents near the boat landing, at the base of 
the cliff, on which is had one of the finest drives in the 
section. 

Donnelly was bound we should stop over night, 
promising a fine meal at the Hotel Fauchere. We were 
in prime condition to discuss a hearty meal, whether 

7 



98 Tzvo Utindred Miles on the Delaware River. 

served in Parisian or American style. The claim of this 
meal to the former style was based upon the service of 
hot plates, warm milk and elegant and ennided dinners.* 

The evening was cool, and the moonlight revealed 
from our camp and from the bluff a grand view of fertile 
plain and winding river, bathed in the soft light. 

The influence of the surroundings manifested itself in 
many ways. Donnelly, who affects tragedy, regaled us 
with some heavy Shakespearean passages. Carter and 
Cooper indulged in reminiscences of travel through 
European countries, and Allen botanized, and theorized 
on instantaneous photography. 

And the scribe ? Well, the scribe has a bad habit of 
"thinking and smoking tobacco." That he enjoyed the 
passage of the evening is evident from his assertion that 
" the night's camp at Milford was remembered as one of 
the most pleasant of the trip," 

Note. — If the cruiser expects to follow this kind of living, extras must include a 
freight canoe as a tender to contain full-dress suits, white flannel outing suits, sashes, 
patent leathers, silk underwear, freckle and tan lotions, almond meal, brilliantine 
and a barber. 



Cbaptcr IDHH, 



MILFORD, PENNSYLVANIA. 

SAWKILL FALLS. 

COMING EVENTS CAST THEIR SHADOWS BEFORE. 

EEL RACKS. 

IN THE DELAWARE VALLEY. 

WE ASTONISH A NATIVE. 

REST AND REVERY. 

THE FIRST ACCIDENT. 

WALPACK BEND. 

A MOONLIGHT SCENE. 

EARLY HISTORY. 



Lo ! dusky masses steal in dubious sight 
Along the leaguered wall, and bristling bank 
Of the armed river. — Bvron. 



m m 




HE dampness of Mongaup Falls proved pene- 
trating. I turned out at 6 o'clock, after 
a night in wet blankets. Trees, bushes, 
and the very ground dripped with the cold, 
clinging fog. Climbing up the mountain 
side, I had a discouraeino^ search for fire- 
wood. Once back in camp, the boys were soon routed 
out and a fire started. Cooper and I cooked a delicious 
breakfast of chops, eggs and coffee, and the others — the 
dudes — went up into town for a hotel breakfast. 

Milford is the county seat of Pike county, and has a 
population of about 800. It is most charmingly situated 
on a broad, rolling formation, some two hundred feet 
above the river, yet at the base of higher mountains 
further inland. 

We had arranged for the local stage to stop for us at 

lOI 



I0 2 Two Hundred Miles on the Delaware River. 

seven o'clock, as we wished to view the Sawkill Falls, 
about a mile inland, reached by a mountain road. 

Gathering our party, we drove up into the town over 
hard roads winding through rows of stately maples. 
We turned into the road leading through the princely 
domains of Banker Pinchot, who owns, with other lands, 
the Glen containing Sawkill Falls. The grounds are 
most generously thrown open to tourists and residents. 

The road and the path to the Falls are marvels of 
beauty, winding as they do in full view of " Gray Castle," 
with its commodious lawns, and under fairy bowers of 
feathery spruce and pine. 

Reaching the forest we tied the team, and with our 
guide continued afoot, disappearing into the romantic 
labyrinth. 

Ahead we heard sharp sounds, as of water falling 
from a great height. A sudden turn in the path brought 
us face to face with a pretty bit of rugged nature in 
solitude. 

And the noise — 

'Tis only the torrent, tumbling o'er, 

In the midst of those glassy walls, 
Gushing and plunging, and beating the floor 

Of the rocky basin in which it falls. 



Some Western Names Duplicated. 103 

At our feet was a deep and wide chasm lined with 
jagged black rocks, covered with moisture. Opposite 
us, and higher still, the mountain stream, like a huge 
bridal veil, tumbled over a rocky wall to be churned to 
foam in its journey over the cliff's side. 

Into a deep rock-basin it fell, continuing to the river 
through a gorge, down which it plunged, a narrow green 
stream, deep and rock confined. 

We clambered over the slippery, moss-covered bould- 
ers to the pool, and inspected the " Devil's Kitchen " 
and the "Winding Canon." 

The sun glistened upon the scene, affording just the 
light for taking photographs. 

Beyond, the Knob and Pike's Peak loomed up boldly, 
but our time was limited, and next to Conashaugh 
Spring we had seen the prettiest spot at all hazards. 

On our way back to camp, we learned that our guide 
had been a raftsman during the prime of lumbering in 
the regions round about, and from him we became posted 
on that portion of the river down which we were yet to 
travel. 

On our arrival at Port Jervis, we had been questioned 
as to our purpose to run Foul Rift, about a mile below 
Belvidere, and were warned not to attempt it. 



I04 Tivo Hundred Miles on the Delaware River. 

Our guide also brought up the subject, and cautioned 
us to be careful, if we decided to risk it, and to keep the 
Pennsylvania channel if we could. 

As an exciting incident of his own rafting experience, 
he told us how, at one time, his raft being overtaken by 
another, just before entering Wells' Falls, at Lambert- 
ville, the two were lashed together, side by side, and 
piloted through safely. 

The width of the channel at Wells' is about ninety-five 
feet, and that of two rafts ninety feet. To accomplish 
the undertaking required a steady nerve, coupled with 
plenty of daring, as one familiar with the place will 
acknowledge. 

Stopping in town for provisions and tent pegs (which 
latter we vowed should be iron when we essayed another 
cruise), we went back to camp and struck tents, not 
getting under way, however, until after ten o'clock. 
Our fortunate cruise, thus far, seemed to strike the 
natives as remarkable. 

A boatman at Milford put the usual question, and we 
replied that we had run all the rapids but those at 
Cochecton. 

In an undertone, we heard him doubt it to a com- 
panion, saying that he was acquainted with the river 



Fouling in S"a'ift Water. 105 

from having- made the trip on a raft, and he knew it 
could not be done in a canoe. 

We paddled down the pond-like opening until we 
reached the point below the landing-. Here the current 
shallowed, and babbled over a gravel bar. 1 he channel 
ran directly down hill to the right, and then wound along- 
the base of a bluff. 

The foot of the rift proved to be an eel-rack, and we 
did not notice it until we were nearing the apex of trap, 
when it was too late to back out of the rush. Cooper 
and I were ahead, and we passed through safely, finding 
the opening- between two large rocks. Beyond was 
deep water again. Allen fouled Carter and swamped, 
jumping out just before going' over the side wall. It re- 
quired some exertion in the swift running current to get 
the water-logged craft ashore. We had to work waist 
deep in water, and gradually trend up stream. Reaching 
shore, the canoe was emptied and then repacked. 

The accident was unfortunate, as it occasioned the 
loss of several exposed plates, and the spoiling of the 
camera. 

These fish racks, of which a number were encountered, 

are built thus : ^ by slanting dams of rocks, 

sticks, etc. ; they begin from the shore in a narrow, 



io6 Two Hundred Miles o?i the Delaware River. 

shallow part of the stream, and running down stream, 
meet in the center ; at the end of each wing a huge rock 
is placed, with an iron spike embedded in it. 

To the spikes a fyke-net is fastened, into which the 
eels are enmeshed as they are carried down by the cur- 
rent. The nets are set and watched at night, and 
require to be taken up and emptied every two hours. 

The practice is illegal, and the racks are only built 
in secluded localities. Besides, they make very danger- 
ous places for canoes or boats as the rush of water over 
the dam carries one along at a high rate of speed. 
Added to this is the danger of being impaled on the 
spikes, which, at low water, are about even with the 
surface. 

Usually, one side or the other does not reach the bank, 
and the canoeist can diverge either way before entering 
the trap. The lines of foam and spray, sparkling ahead, 
also help to denote danger. 

Not including these shallows, we ran on this day 
twelve rifts, including Mary and Sambo (channel to left 
of island). Ground Hog, Hay Cock and Fiddler's Elbow. 

We were now, strictly speaking, in the Delaware 
valley. We left the "endless chain of mountains," 
when we ran down the rift, below Port Jervis, and 



Before 71 s ? 107 

rounded to at the mouth of the peaceful Neversink, or 
in the Indian tongue, " Mohaccomac " branch. 

Years ago, before 1675, that branch of the Delaware 
tribe, known as the Minsimini, or Wolf tribe, roamed at 
will between these waters and the Forks at Easton. On 
the plains at these two points notable council fires were 
held. Here also is the terminus of the Upper Indian 
Path, reaching from Navesink to Minisink. 

On our right, back from the river, ran the cliffs, eight 
hundred feet in height. The stage road to Water Gap 
winds at the very base, and the landscape is unsurpassed. 
The limestone soil is most excellent, and the region is 
noted for its agricultural products. 

The early history of the valley we were now traveling, 
compared with its present state, forcibly calls to mind 
those lines of Bryant's — 

" Before these fields were shorn and tilled 
Full to the Vjrim our rivers flowed ; 
The melody of waters filled 
The fresh and boundless wood ; 
And torrents dashed and rivulets played 
And fountains spouted in the shade." 

We were told not to miss the falls of the Raymonds- 
kill, and were sorry that our time was too limited to 



io8 Tivo Hundred Miles on the Delaivare River. 

enable us to take the wild tramp. Dingman's High 
Falls and the Silver Thread we also had to forego 
visiting. 

Our intention at starting was to make Bushkill by 
evenine. and, as it was one o'clock when we reached 
Dingman's Ferry, a stoppage of a couple of hours would 
throw us far back of our schedule. We were shown the 
long rift by a vigorous farmer-waterman, who became 
deeply interested in our craft. 

He was very doubtful as to our ability to run the rift, 
and looked incredulous when we told him what we had 
accomplished. 

"What did you do about ' Lackawax ?' " he queried 
doubtingly. 

" Ran it," sententiously answered Carter. 

"In a pig's eye you did," he drawled out. 

As we passed, he jumped into an unwieldly, high-sided 
row-boat, propelled by clumsy oars, having bent handles, 
working on tholes, and accompanied us to the head of 
the rift. 

It was only an ordinary shallow stretch, with an 
eighteen-inch drop over the first ledge. 

As usual, in taking a narrow channel, we went through 
Indian file, and our friend was pleased as we glided down 



Aicay from the City s N^oise and Dirt. 109 

like so many turtles without any mishap. He waved us 
a good-bye, and shouted a warning about Foul Rift as we 
passed out of hearing. At the end of the rift, broken 
stone piers told the tale of a freshet and a wrecked 
bridge. 

The country about us, on both sides, we judged to be 
extremely wild. Large game abounds in the interior, 
and the river affords good bass fishing. 

During the latter part of the afternoon we paddled 
through some long stretches of deep and rough water. 
The day had been perfect, and we felt in excellent 
spirits. 

In running a succession of rapids I became separated 
from the rest, just being able to see their paddle blades 
flash in the sunlight as they approached the edge of 
some steep rift. Rounding a bend, I lost sight of them 
entirely, and landed at the foot of a meadow that began 
some feet above the river. Close by the cliffs, a cosy 
farm nestled. 

Stretched at ease under the overhanging trees, I spent 
a very pleasant and restful hour. i\ soft breeze swept 
through the valley, and before me, in New Jersey, lay a 
fine, well-cultivated farm. Barns and buildings were 
strung along the river-bank, and a long, low country- 



no Tivo Hundred Miles on the Dela^vare River. 

house was visible on the side of a commanding- hill, 
die brow of which was reached by a series of natural 
terraces. To the left a plowman was busy turning 
furrows, and in the woods, lower down, the ringing 
sound of an axe was heard. As I meditated visions of 
a cold fall and winter, housed crops and marketed pro- 
duce filled my mind. And then the farmer's season of 
ease, the daily duties, and the following quiet evenings 
before open fire-places and huge wood-fires. Not a bad 
picture, I think I hear you echoing. 

I had waited long, and was beginning to get uneasy 
about the boys, thinking they might have taken another 
channel, when I saw a couple of canoes creeping down 
in the shadow of the fast departing day. 

They proved to be captained by Cooper and Donnelly, 
who shortly landed near me. 

The boys reported Allen's canoe as having sprung 
a leak, through a long split, probably received in the 
morning's accident. Carter had stopped with him to 
see what they could do with the fracture, and expected 
to catch up with us as soon as possible, so we dropped 
paddles and waited near a cooling spring that bubbled 
from the gravel. 

Cooper, in nosing along shore, had fallen in with a 



Anecdotes of Foul Rift. 1 1 1 

fisherman and found in him an interesting talker. He 
had been a raft pilot at Lackawaxen dam, taking rafts 
through for twelve shillings each. He also sounded the 
warning about Foul rift, although he said we could make 
it if we were careful. 

For himself he said he hated the place, as it was 
swift and rocky. He almost met with an accident at 
one time while running the rift, unshipping a sweep in 
the worst place. Happily he recovered the unwieldly, 
but essential article, before the raft became unmanage- 
able. 

Carter and Allen soon joined us, having succeeded in 
repairing the broken Werowance. 

The sun was now directly over the river course, and 
the last four miles w^ere made with the annoyance of 
having Sol's rays directly in our eyes. This was bad for 
us, especially so on a strange part of the river. We had 
to depend mainly on the current floating us into the right 
channel. 

We took three rifts thus handicapped, and it was 
slow work. We also narrowly escaped being swept 
down on a low hanging ferry guide-wire, which reached 
across the river at the head of one of the rifts. 

We landed at the fishery, near a dark ravine, the wild 



112 Tivo Hundred Miles on the Delazvare River. 

mouth of the Bushkill creek. The town lay so far away, 
that on account of approaching darkness we decided not 
to visit it, but instead looked about for a camp site. We 
found ourselves on the arm of the famous Walpack 
bend, the ferry of the early settlers in this section. To 
the left was the Walpack Ridge. Close to the right 
shore arose a member of the Blue mountain ranee. 
Above us, the nearest railroad was at Port Jervis, below, 
at Water Gap. The country we found very thinly 
inhabited. 

In Pennsylvania the damp wooded mountain-side gave 
no hope of a camp, so we turned our canoes to New 
Jersey. 

Now, as in the time of the colonists, we found her 
ever ready to give shelter to the traveler. On a bluff, 
about fifteen feet above the water, we found a fine level 
for pitching our tents, and back and above us, on another 
slope, was a far-reaching wheat field. The lifting and 
carrying of duffle from the water's edge to the height 
was the only objectionable feature. 

It was dark when we finished pitching tents, and we 
were tired. Camp-fires soon lit up the dark surround- 
ings, and were reflected in the waters beneath. 

Hungry mortals we, as we gathered around the 



A Rare Sight. 113 

evening meal, and the appetite each exhibited was an 
honest one, full of meaning. 

While thus engaged we witnessed a grand sight, 
which will ever live in our memories. Directly opposite, 
rising from out the water's dark depths, towered a hem- 
lock and pine-covered mountain cliff, the leafy effect in 
the dusk shading from dark green to black. 

Above the cliff's edge, we first noticed a halo of light, 
which grew brighter as the moon ascended. 

Then, clear cut against the dark blue sky, Luna's 
upper edge appeared, forming an enchanting back- 
ground for the display of the feathery limbs and leafy 
tree tops on the brow of the rocky eminence. Slowly 
it mounted, until the whole display of interlaced tree- 
forms was marked in bold relief on its brilliant face. 
As it passed higher into the heavens, the oblique rays 
of light lit up the hillside and were reflected in the 
current. 

The scene was sublimely grand, and, musically, the 
current rippled below us : 

How sweet the moonlight sleeps upon this l^anlc ! 
Here we will sit and let the sounds of music 
Creep in our ears : Soft stillness and the night 
Become the touches of sweet harmony. 



114 Tzvo Hundred Miles on the Dela-ccarc River. 

To add to the romance of the situation, the long-drawn 
cries of owls sounded in the forests, and katy-dids rasped 
about us. 

The latter signify six weeks from frost, according to 
the accepted idea, but we imagined that we had slept in 
it on several occasions. 

The fires burned low, and the boys were resting 
and sleeping. Looking out on the peaceful scene, as 
I lay on my cot, warmly banked by blankets, I could 
not help recalling a little bit of history, that tells how 
nearly two hundred and fifty years ago nigh this very 
spot, during an Indian uprising on the frontier of 
New Jersey, the family of Nicholas Cole was unexpect- 
edly attacked, and its members murdered or carried 
off. 

Upon investigation, the massacre was justified by the 
Indians on the ground that the hanging for murder of 
one of their Sachems, Wee-que-helah, had been without 
cause. 

This is only one of many bloody scenes through which 
our country has passed. The valley of the Delaware, 
however, was noted for its continued peace during the 
exciting times of the early settlement of the three states 
on whose borders we were journeying. That the condi- 



Thoughts of William Pemi. 115 

tion of affairs in this section, as they existed, was due to 
that truly good Quaker, WilHam Penn, is undeniable, 
and the esteem in which he was held by the Delaware 
tribes is proof of the justice of his dealings with them. 



Cbaptcr mn. 

AN INDIAN DREAM LEGEND. 

THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. 

WATER GAP. 

A BIT OF FEMININITY. 

ROCK FORMATIONS. 

FARMING. 

RAMSAYSBURG. 

MUSIC AND ECHOES. 

A HANDY LIQUID. 

SWEET SLEEP. 



" Each day is a little life." — Lubbock. 




HE morning- was well advanced when we 
turned out, and, consequently, we had late 
breakfast. 

The sun was a long time breaking through 

the fo8f-like mist, which hun«- clinoino- to the 

mountains about us. 

At breakfast Carter accused Allen of having made 

some wild statements and gyrations in his sleep, but 

could give no definite reasons for them beyond the fact 

that the dreamer appeared in great trepidation. 

We came to the conclusion that owing to the his- 
torical associations of the surroundings the tired 
canoeist had had a vision of the curious Lenape legend 
AmangacJiktiatmachqiie, or Legend of the Big, Frightful 
Naked Bear. 

This animal, of which even at that time there was a 
scarcity, had been hunted by the different tribes, and was 
immense in size and very ferocious. Its skin was bare, 

119 



1 20 Tzvo Htindred Miles on the Delazvare River. 

with the exception of a tuft of white hair on its back. 
The animal was, also, very fond of Indian meat, and the 
pursuer frequently became the pursued. When the 
tables were thus turned the native's only safety was in 
reaching water. The naked bear's olfactory nerve was 
well developed, but, as is usually the case with monstros- 
ities, the acuteness of one part was offset by a corres- 
ponding- dullness of another, in this instance by defective 
sight. 

Its heart was so small an arrow could not enter it with 
certainty be the archer ever so skillful. The only sure 
method was to break the creature's back-bone. This, 
we conjectured, was the dreamer's object, hence his wild 
motions. 

The sun's rays streamed directly into camp, drying 
our effects thoroughly. We gathered and packed duffle 
on the bluff, and then rolled it down to the canoes where 
the operation of stowing was performed. At ten o'clock 
we crossed the river, seeking the shade of the precipi- 
tous cliff. The sun heated the narrow channel unmerci- 
fully. 

I must digress here to warn that any future cruiser, if 
In looking through these glassy waters to the river bed, 
he should see numerous white squares, strewn irregularly 



A Maze Puzzle. 1 2 1 

over the gravel, and wonder thereat, not to investigate 
if tempted so to do. No curious glacial formations are 
they ; no relics of Indian handicraft ; no mirrors of 
English fur-traders. They are simply camera plates, 
whose future usefulness had been impaired by clamp 
wetness, the result of the accident below Milford. 

For two and a half miles of our morning journey we 
did not advance at all, substantially retracing on another 
arm of the river, the route we had run the nio^ht before. 
After many twists and turns, during which evolutions we 
were on a down grade, we straightened out and com- 
menced a tedious experience in rapids running, under a 
burning sim and against a head wind. 

The water was very heavy and deep, with numerous 
cross currents. 

We remarked some fine scenery above Water Gap. 
Far ahead of us, in the distance, enveloped in a blue 
mist, could be seen the bold rangfes of the Blue moun- 
tains, with their peaks and gaps. 

" 'Tis distance lends enchantment to the view, 
And robes the mountain in its azure hue !" 

Most noticeable were the peaks, Minsi and Tammany, 
which form the famed water gate through which the river 



12 2 Tzvo Hiindred Miles on the Delaware River. 

rushes, from thenceforth to flow through an important 
farming- and grazing district, irrigated by innumerable 
streams, whose charming, peaceful valleys afford unsur- 
passed facihties for market gardening. 

We passed a Httle raft on its way to Water Gap. 
The owners were having a tedious experience with the 
head wind and the numerous shoals. 

Reaching the landing at the grove about half-past one 
o'clock, we hauled canoes out on the sandy shore and 
went up into town. 

Cooper, who was ahead of us, had gone down the 
next rift. We expected him to join us in the town. In 
this we were disappointed, as he staid below taking 
photographs until we joined him. 

At the Delaware House we had lunch, and then went 
shopping for provisions ; and thereby hangs a tale. 

From necessity our party had formed no Academe, 
such as Shakespeare depicts in Love's Labor's Lost. 
To my knowledge none had been tied by silken bands, 
or left a love-lorn maid at home. Still a hard cruise 
amidst many trials, with only male companionship, 
ofives wonderful acuteness to that lonaino- for women's 
faces, if the eye is at all susceptible to those daintier 
charms. 



Under the Circumstance. 123 

It is no wonder then, that when we sun-burned river 
travelers came across a charmino- bit of womanhood in 
the confectionery at the foot of the mountain road, we 
became most deferential and polite. 

The pretty miss' cream-colored dress, loosely gathered 
in careless folds, enhancing a pair of brown eyes and 
wavy-like hair, proved an irresistible combination, sug- 
gestive of Johnson's delicately-turned verse. 

As a compliment, cream was purchased where, in 
truth, tlie aromatic pipe would have been preferable. 

After making purchases, we took a walk up the 
mountain path to the Kittatinny and Mountain Hotels, 
and stopped at the Glen and Bazaar. 

At the latter place the proprietor was much interested 
in our trip, and deprecated our running Foul Rift. He 
told us he was acquainted with young Mr. Leiper, of 
Philadelphia, who was drowned in the rift last July. 

He said the channel was on the Pennsylvania side, but 
would not take the responsibility of further instructing us. 

During the morning we remarked the heat, even upon 
the water when we were running against the wind. In 
town it was unbearable. We learned that the east was 
experiencing a hot wave that had been predicted several 
days previously. 



124 Two Hundred Miles on the Delaware River. 

We joined Carter at the hotel, and then returned to 
the boats. The place at which we stopped was the 
upper landing-, where a side wheel steamer lay. We 
were informed that during the season she plied back 
and forth to and above the railroad bridge. Between 
the upper landing and the Mountain House wharf is a 
shallow rift. Between this rift and the Gap another 
steamer carries sightseers. 

The sun was shining bright and strong, but Mount 
Minsi cast a grateful shadow, which we sought. Mount 
Tammany (from Tamenend, the noted Delaware chief- 
tain, who dealt with Penn), bold and rocky, appeared 
ahead, outlined against a perfectly clear sky. 

Numerous fishing parties and "girling" canoes dotted 
the placid o'ershadowed waters. The black bass were 
biting freely. 

As we floated down wdth the current the solid front of 
mountain beean to show irregular outlines. A few 
strokes of the paddles and we found our course again 
close to the base of these lofty, silent sentinel peaks. 

Just before entering the rift below the Gap, we noticed 
on the down stream side of the right-hand cliff, the pro- 
file of a man's face, plainly marked. To heighten the 
effect a bush at the chin formeci a realistic o-oatee. 



Soil Form a tions. 125 

The Blue mountains at this point are known as the 
Shawangunk in New York and New Jersey, and as the 
Kittatinnyin Pennsylvania. The elevation at the Water 
Gap is 1,479 feet above the sea level. 

The geological formations prominently exposed, as 
we proceeded, w^ere sand and limestone soils, and trap 
rock. Slate also abounds, and a most successful quarry 
is located at Water Gap. Further down the river, below 
Easton, granite is quarried in commercial quantities. 

The cultivated and tillable soil every where in this 
region is formed from decayed rock. The Oriskany 
sandstone and the magnesian limestone readily disinte- 
grate, and form rich and productive soils, supplying 
phosphoric acid and potash in abundance. The climate, 
rainfall and natural drainage are combinations bound to 
be appreciated by those seeking profitable farms, and 
the percentage of recovered arable lands has greatly 
increased. 

Below Water Gap the country began to spread out, 
and the river showed many shallows. 

We had plenty of excitement as we took one rift after 
another until sun-down. We passed numerous islands 
above and below W^ater Gap, and we kept mostly to the 
Jersey channel. During low water the best course must 



126 Two Hundred Miles on the Delaware River. 

be selected from the many that present themselves, and 
one need not expect to get along- without grounding. 

Below Portland we entered a winding and swift rift in 
which Carter was hung up, without any serious mishap, 
however. 

It was dusk when we found a camp site, at Ramsays- 
burg, two miles above Manunka Chunk. 

The site selected was at the edge of a commanding 
bluff, the termination of an extensive Jersey farm. Not 
far up stream a ferry was established. 

It was indeed a camp much welcomed by all hands. 
The day had been intolerably hot, and we had battled 
with a head wind until sundown. Besides making about 
twenty-five miles, we had had the mountain clim.b at the 
Gap, which in itself was hard on muscles unused to the 
work. 

The NaJihvi was hauled bodily up the bluff and un- 
packed in camp for convenience, and as a labor-saving 
expedient. 

As the shades of night were falling our camp was 
completed, and moonlight beamed upon us as we sat 
down to a hearty dinner of steak, eggs, potatoes and 
coffee. 

The nitjht was clear and warm, and the moon's soft 



Poetry and Comradeship. 127 

light, over the rolling hills and wide expanse of water 
formed withal a pleasing picture for the memory. 

From afar, on the still nio^ht breezes and echoino" in 
the valley, came strains of music o'er the quiet waters. 
The receding slopes about us caught up the swelling 
tones, bearing them onw^ard, until the sounds died away 
in the night like the distant hush of a purling stream. 

'Twas undoubtedly such an incident as this that evoked 
the followine verse from Moore — 

" tlow sweet the answer Echo makes, 
To music at night 

When roused by lute or harp, she wakes, 
And far away o'er lawns and lakes, 
Goes answering light." 

From our vantage point above the stream we listened 
to the sounds — sweet recollections of home. 

We built a snug camp-fire for comradeship and enjoyed 
it until late, for rest and refreshment to mind and body 
are wonderful stimulants. 

We had two invalids in camp, Cooper nursing a 
sprained wrist, and Donne' ly a bad cold. Jamaica rum 
was the antidote for both ailments. It was applied ex- 
ternally as a liniment in the former case, by inhalation in 
the latter. 



128 Tzvo Him d red Miles on the Delaivare River. 

The joke of the evening- was an incident that hap- 
pened at Water Gap. 1 he Quartermaster had fallen 
into the habit of callino- Carter, " Dad," and in the 
course of conversation at the hotel, made use of the 
appellation in the hearing of a third party, who earnestly 
inquired if such really was the case. 

We were out of the mountain mists and dews at last, 
and to-morrow we could look for a clear morning much 
earlier than usual. 

To-morrow, too — and it was discussed about the camp- 
fire — we would know whether we were to continue to 
Trenton as a party, or break up on the other side of 
Big Foul. 

We turned in with assurances of a hearty sleep, pos- 
sibly, however, to be disturbed with visions of artistically 
carved canoe bottoms and frantic struo-o-les in a resist- 

oo 

less, rock-strewn tide. 



Cbaptcr 11$. 



A CLEAR MORNING. 

WE FIND A CHANNEL. 

BELVIDERE. 

FOUL RIFT. 

THE SECOND ACCIDENT. 

DROWNING OF A CANOEIST. 

PHILLIPSBURG AND EASTON. 

ABOVE CARPENTERVILLE. 

A COUNTRY HOTEL. 



Row, brothers, row ! the stream runs fast. 
The rapids are near and the daylight's past ! 

'■'•Canadian Boat Song^'' Mooj-c 





E WERE all out at six o'clock, in time to see 
the sun rise, a sio-ht strano-e to us, who had 
been so long- in the misty Highlands. 

For the first time in a week our camp 

equipments were dry. Not a particle of 

dew had fallen. 

As early as eight o'clock canoes were packed, and, 

breakfast over, we pushed away from our night's camp, 

with bright prospects of a pleasant day. 

Below Manunka Chunk we saw some distance ahead 
a series of islands, and were in doubt as to the proper 
channel to take. Running ashore, I stopped at a house 
on the bank to ascertain the lay of the land. In the 
door-yard I met an elderly lady, of whom I inquired if 
our party could, with safety, follow the left shore. 
"No, sir," she answered, with a rising inflection. 



131 



132 Tzvo Hundred Miles on the Delazvare River. 

"The channel, then, is on the right?" I interrogated. 

"Yes," she rephed as before, but added, hastily, 
"You can't eet down there. The rifts are ahead of 
you." 

" Thank you," I replied, " That is just what we wanted 
to know." 

Our informant was right. We found plenty of rifts, 
and bad ones, too, some nineteen to Raubville, and they 
were deep, swift and rough. Notably so were Long Rift 
and Buttermilk Rift, above Belvidere. 

On our way we passed several fishing parties, and 
each had some particularly horrible phase of Foul Rift to 
pound into our ears "free, gratis, for nothing." And I 
believe if we had not firmly intended to pass through at 
any cost, we would have been scared into avoiding this 
spot before even seeing it. 

One, a ferryman, wanted to know if the fate of one 
canoeist was not enough to make us afraid of it, without 
wanting to take a personal risk. 

Carter, laconically, answered his question by asking 
another — namely, if he was afraid to go to bed. 

Laughing and catching the point, he said "no," and 
wished us a safe passage. 

Just above Belvidere our photographer got a pretty 



Noticed in History . 133 

picture of the yet distant town with its wild back- 
ground. 

Another picture taken, an ideal subject for a landscape 
painting, was a water-wheel, standing alone in a wild 
and rocky glen back of the river. The buildings had 
been carried away by flood, and only the wrecked wheel 
remained. 

We ran in at the mouth of Pequest creek at ten 
o'clock, and went ashore to send telegrams and letters, 
and to express a lot of undeveloped plates. 

In the town we heard nothing but Foul Rift, and how 
dangerous and swift it was. 

Of course we could pardon the natives, as there is 
considerable rivalry existing between them and the 
people of Lambertville as to the honor of the worst rift 
on the river. Wells' Falls being upheld by the Lambert- 
villians as even the more dangerous of the two places. 

Foul Rift is, without doubt, a bad place to encounter, 
and always has been. Proude's " History of Pennsyl- 
vania," published in 1798, calls it by the same name on 
the map issued with Vol. I. Smith's " History of New 
Jersey," 1765, says : 

"The Delaware river, from the head of Cushietunk, 
though not obstructed with falls, has not been improved 



134 Tzi'o Hiuidrcd Miles on the Dclazvare River. 

to any inland navigation, by reason of the thinness of 
the settlements that way. From Cushietunk (Cochecton) 
to Trenton Falls, are fourteen considerable rifts, yet all 
passable in the long, flat boats used in the navigation of 
these parts, some carrying 500 or 600 bushels of wheat. 
The greatest number of rifts are from Easton downward, 
and those fourteen miles above Easton, another just 
below Wells' Ferry, and that at Trenton are the worst. 
The boats seldom come down but with freshes, espe- 
cially from the Minnisinks." 

The rift fourteen miles above Easton is, undoubtedly, 
Foul Rift. The boats mentioned were somewhat on the 
style of the Durham boats, forty or fifty feet long and 
seven feet wide, built of heavy planking, and drawing 
about twenty inches of water. The up-river ferry scows 
are built with about these dimensions even to-day. 

In the rift the limestone ledges and the scattered lime- 
stone rocks, with their serrated edges and deep pot holes, 
over which the current sweeps and churns rapidly and 
loudly, are constant sources of danger. 

The limestone does not wear smooth by the action of 
the water, but breaks in jagged layers, leaving sharp 
angles, and points that cut like knives. 

Pushing away from the raft to which we had tied, we 



In the Distance. 135 

floaied down with the stream, each one baring for the 
fray, arms tanned to the shoulders. 

We had every confidence in our craft, and our diifRe 
was packed without danger of shifting — we had paid 
marked attention to that with each article stowed, in the 
early morning. 

We would also see whether the experience gained in 
rifts above amounted to anything at a pinch. 

At 11:07, with Carter in the lead, we entered Little 
Foul at the edee of a bend. Aj; the foot of the incline 
we straightened out and passed into the eddy above the 
Big Rift. 

We could hear in the distance the old familiar sound we 
had oft listened for to desig-nate either a rift or fall, but in 
this instance it sounded with greater volume than usual. 

" Do you hear it, Hoff ?" asked Carter, as the Nahizvi 
ran alongside. 

"Yes, and see it, too," I answered, for thickly to the 
left lay sentinel rocks high in air, against which the cur- 
rent broke in angry spray, covering the shore with per- 
petual moisture. 

Truly the channel was "to Pennsylvania," and ex- 
ceedingly narrow. 

Carter and I were swept onward in safety, and were 



136 Two Hundred Miles on the Delaware River. 

Steering for the last drop over which the current boiled 
and seethed, when to me it seemed as if his canoe would 
be carried down on a ragged rock lying fairly in the 
channel. 

If so, this would throw him across the narrow open'ng, 
and I would certainly foul him. Pointing my canoe close 
to a gravel formation, jutting down stream, I was pre- 
paring to jump, when I saw the Zerlina swing clear, the 
force of the water against the rock helping her past in 
safety. 

I headed for the current again, but too late to pass the 
end of the bar, which was strewn with rocks, and collided 
with a sharp one, striking on the left forward quarter. 
The force caused the point of rock to go through the 
garboard-streak like an axe, and water commenced to 
leak through the break. So clean was the cut and so 
great the speed that the canoe was not deflected from 
her course, nor the jar noticed. 

I took the last drop and landed at 1 1:20 with a great 
deal of water shipped. 

Allen and Donnelly came through with plenty of water 
aboard, having struck only at the last ledge. With the 
exception of being hung up on a rock at the entrance, 
Cooper was all right. 



Our Experie7ice. 137 

And so we ran this b^te noir of the Delaware river 
raftsmen. 

The length of the incline is about a mile and a half. 
Therefore the rate of the canoe's speed was not so great. 
The course was rock-strewn and rough, but still no 
worse than the rift at Masthope, where in places the cur- 
rent is quicker than here. I remember striking a rock 
in the Masthope rift, hitting squarely on the keel with 
such force as to be thrown or slid completely over it. 
Had the canoe drawn half an inch more water she would 
have been a wreck. 

Foul Rift is bad for rafts on two accounts, first, the 
sharp bend in approaching it ; and second, the rocks on 
the Jersey side. 

For amateur canoeists, starting in at Port Jervis, or at 
Water Gap, with no previous experience, it is dangerous, 
and had better be avoided, as had Wells' Falls. For a 
canoeman fresh from the trying school below Hancock, 
it should have no terrors. A scow or batteau could not 
get through when the water is low without striking. 
On a full river or fresh it could be done easily. In fact, 
the people exaggerate its dangers from hearsay. In 
most cases, where the natives have to depend on their 
own knowledge for the name, location, or channel, 



138 Tivo Hundred Miles on the Delaivare River. 

unless they be fishermen, or follow rafting, the informa- 
tion is not of much assistance. 

A very sad accident happened here on the tenth of 
July, during- the present year, when Samuel Leiper, a 
young Philadelphia canoeist, and press correspondent, 
was drowned. He, in company with three others, started 
from Water Gap, bound on a cruise in search of health 
and recreation. The four canoeists traveled in two 
canvas canoes, and went all right until they attempted 
Foul Rift, where they capsized. All were rescued but 
Mr. Leiper, who attempted to swim ashore. He was 
swept down on a rock and killed. 

Two of the party, Messrs. Williams and Johnson, had 
made the trip from Port Jervis the year before, having 
stopped at Park Island, on that occasion, and were con- 
fident of repeating it successfully. 

The real danger lay not in the river, so much as in the 
men traveling two in a boat, which should not be done 
under any circumstances. In this instance, not only did 
this disadv^antage exist, but the two men were amateurs, 
and one was lame. Everything was therefore against 
the feat being accomplished safely. 

This is one of the rare instances of the drowning of 
a canoeist, and while very deplorable, was almost to be 



In Mentor iam. 139 

expected, unless the parties bore charmed lives. Trust- 
ing to luck does not carry one through everything. 

While repairing the broken Nahizvi, we had a conver- 
sation with a fisherman named Dickey, who said he had 
been watching for us every day, as he had been told by 
his brother that we were on our way down. 

He told us he had seen almost every canoeing party 
that had run the falls, and mentioned several with whom 
we were familiar. He slyly remarked that usually some 
of the boats were hauled up for repairs before pro- 
ceedino". 

Further down, on the Pennsylvania bank, lay the 
Wandei^er, one of the canoes abandoned by the Phila- 
delphia cruisers. Over her floated a couple of American 
flags. 

Nearby we met Samuel Snyder, of Easton, who, with 
Mr. Dickey, was instrumental in recovering the body of 
the drowned canoeist, and in rescuing the other mem- 
bers of the ill-fated party. 

We landed on a sand bank at the foot of the rift, 
hardby a pretty grove of larches, while Cooper photo- 
graphed the surroundings, and also a point of the lime- 
stone formation half way down the rift. 

After resting we continued our trip, running Cape 



140 Two Hundred Miles 07i the Delazvare River. 

Bush, Bush, Little Bush, Martin's, and Smalley rifts, 
getting plenty of vigorous exercise. The twists in the 
channels were constant revelations, and although we 
started in a rift on the Jersey shore, it were wonderful if 
we had not been to the Pennsylvania shore and back 
again in traversing its length. 

At Brainerd's w^e sought shelter from the heat of the 
sun, in a grove above the railroad bridge. Our rest was 
made doubly restful by the unexpected arrival of a 
pitcher of milk and some large home-made ginger cakes, 
obtained at a nearby farm-house. 

An hour later we reached Phillipsburg and Easton, 
twin cities on the heights, after meeting with some 
rough falls above, especially at Sandt's Eddy. Here we 
stopped awhile to rest as we had plenty of time to make 
Raubville before nightfall. 

Phillipsburg in New Jersey and Easton in Pennsyl- 
vania are representative cities of the two states. The 
former is conspicuous for its extensive blast furnaces 
and manufactories, and the traffic incident to its being 
the terminus of the Morris canal, and the central ship- 
ping and transfer point for coal and iron products, 
through the medium of the Lehigh Valley and the Belvi- 
dere Division Railroads. 



A Favored Country. 141 

" From the hundred chimneys of the village, 
Like the afreet in the Arabian story, smoky columns 
Tower aloft in the air of amber." 

Easton, with Lafayette College, its canal and railroad 
facilities and rich aorricultural districts, ranks with the 
representative cities of the state. 

Habit is stroncr with us. At noon, October loth, 
1887, I left Phillipsbiirg- for a cruise down to Trenton. 
On that occasion I paddled under the railroad bridge, 
close to the ris^ht bank, there not beino- sufficient water 
over the dam. To-day, as we continued, I took the 
same course. Carter, Allen, Cooper and Donnelly went 
through the shute. 

The water below was rough and deep, as it flowed 
through a cut formed by a high bank on the right, and 
the railroad embankment on the left. Here a number 
of lads, in swimming, gave chase to our canoes, their 
lithe bodies cutting the water quickly, in their efforts to 
distance the paddle. 

The waning afternoon was pleasant, affording a grate- 
ful change from the heat in which we had been paddling. 
We had ample time to make camp, and were in no 
particular hurry, floating downward, scarcely a breeze 
ruffling the water. 



142 Tivo Hiind7'ed Miles on the Delaivare River. 

Above Carpenterville the inland country ahead, termi- 
nating in the far distance in a series of elevations and 
depressions, formed a companion to the exquisite picture 
which we beheld at the junction of the Neversink, and 
about Port Jervis. The water from now on we noticed 
was not as clear as above Easton, being- foul with coal 
and sewage. It takes seven miles for a stream to purify 
itself, and not until it o-ets below Raubville is the water 
clean again. 

The river was quite wide, and we were on the crest of 
an incline that ended in a noisy rush, caused by a clam 
that extended half way to the Pennsylvania shore. 

We were in a quandary regarding a camping spot, so 
Donnelly went ashore to ascertain about hotels. A 
couple of our party had wet blankets and did not care 
to make camp, as the night was likely to prove cool. 

Whilst waiting for the Quartermaster, we stopped in 
an eddy back of some exposed rocks in mid-stream. In 
the water the inverted shadows of surrounding objects 
appeared as clear cut as the original outlines against the 
perfect sky. 

Presently our attention was attracted, by the angry 
barking of dogs, to the bank on which our courier had 
landed. We at once beheld Donnelly backing down a 



Items of Interest. 143 

crooked pathway with a stick in either hand, keeping at 
bay a pack of mongrel curs. Jumping into his canoe he 
pushed off hastily, leaving some disappointed canines 
howling for fresh meat. 

We learned that at this season there were no hotel 
accommodations to be had at Carpenterville, but that 
across the river, at Raubville, we could stop at the Dela- 
ware House, As it was fast falling night, we decided to 
stop for supper and breakfast, and to make an early start 
in the mornino-- 

We completed a thirty-three mile paddle by running 
in the dusk the dam and rift before mentioned, and haul- 
ing the boats up in front of "ye hostelrie." 

Saturday night at a country hotel is not without its 
interesting features. The week's w^ork over, the farmers 
from the country-side gather to discuss crops, horses and 
politics. On this occasion the latter subject received a 
stimulant in the shape of the high sheriff, who had 
stopped on his way home from Doylestown, the county 
seat of Bucks county. 

It was late at night before the ferry to the Jersey shore 
ceased from business. But we had sought our welcome 
rest in "tired Nature's sweet restorer — balmy Sleep!" 



Cbaptcr $♦ 



TRICKS OF A CAMERA. 

SOME PLACES OF INTEREST. 

RINGING ROCKS. 

RELIGIOUS SECTS. 

FRENCHTOWN. 

GOD'S COUNTRY. 

AT ERWINNA. 

LAMBERTVILLE. 

FALLS TO TIDE-WATER. 

WELCOMED HOME. 

WASHINGTON'S CROSSING. 

LOCAL HISTORY. 

THE MOON ONCE MORE. 

EXEUNT. 



The sun is down and time gone by 

The stars are twinkHng in the sky, 

Nor torch nor taper longer may 

Eke out a blylhe but stinted day ; 

The hours have passed with stealthy flight 

We needs must part ; good night, good night ! 

— Joanna Baillie. 





E HAD an early breakfast served, and made 
the start at eight o'clock. Cooper photo- 
graphed our last camp on the cruise, and it 
was fun to see the stable boy and man of all 
work pose with broom and rake. Their 
attitudes may have been perfect and un- 
strained, but they will never be any the wiser, for they 
were "not in it." A camera is a "wery deceivin' 
creetur," it may be looking squarely at you and yet 
won't see you at all. 

Forty-four miles to Trenton. Would we make it 
to-day? Cooper said "yes," and Donnelly, "no." 
We waited to see. 



147 



148 Tivo Hundred Miles on the Delaivare River. 

The sky was slightly clouded, and die country on 
this Sunday morning- seemed so quiet and entirely differ- 
ent from that of a week ago, when we floated through 
rifts and down placid pools, enjoying the scenery as it 
lay spread out before us. 

This day we encountered innumerable rifts and long 
stretches of shallows. During the morning we left 
behind us Pincher's Point, a bass fishing locality, 
Warren, Upper Black's Eddy, where the deep waters 
are continually bubbling and eddying for a considerable 
distance ; Brougher's, or Hog-Back Island, yielding cob- 
blestone on the upper and sand on the lower end ; 
Reielesville, with its curious rift and rocks and the dam ; 
Durham Furnace, a portion of the extensive Cooper & 
Hewitt iron plant, and then Milford. Across the river, 
at the latter place, runs the canal, and near the road is a 
canal-boat yard, with powerful cribs or jacks for bending 
the heavy bow timbers. 

Up on the mountains of Pennsylvania a curious 
phenomenon exists, known as the Ringing Rocks, a 
collection of metallic boulders that emit ringing and 
even musical combinations of sounds upon being struck. 
Wonderful to relate, there is not a tradition as to how 
they came there. They present to the eye an aggre- 



Dclazvarc l^alley Districts. 149 

gation a couple of acres in extent, in the midst of the 
cultivated mountain plateau. 

Further inland the relioious sects, known as Dunkards, 
Moravians and Mennonites, have their social colonies, 
and each is well known in the large towns adjacent. 

At twelve o'clock we reached Frenchtown and stopped 
for dinner, and it was after one o'clock when we resumed 
paddling. Our way lay through a comparatively flat 
country, famed for its crops of corn, wheat, rye and 
potatoes. But not until you reach Trenton do you 
strike the real low country. 

The districts bordering on the Delaware fall into three 
classes, the Highlands, from Hancock to Port Jervis ; 
the Delaware valleys, of which there are several from 
Port Jervis to Trenton, and the lowlands from Trenton 
to Delaware Bay. 

Each district has its peculiar value. The timber lands 
belonging to the first district are very important indeed, 
the scarcity of lumber and the destruction of forests 
being vigorously discussed in economic journals. The 
agricultural districts of the second are the life and stay 
of our manufacturing towns. And the cranberry, char- 
coal, vineyard and peach sections of the third are all 
well known and important. 



150 Two Hu7idred Miles on the Delaware River. 

A noticeable fact concerning the section through 
which we were traveHngf was that the river villagfes of 
any importance center about some milling industry, the 
motive power for which was obtained by the construction 
of temporary dams, race-ways or canal weirs. These 
prosperous hamlets were mostly noticed on the New 
York and New Jersey shores, where some inland stream 
was utilized, or where dams runninor to the center of the 
Delaware had been constructed. 

On the Pennsylvania shore we failed to see these 
dams, and only saw two or three mills. The reason for 
this is the lack of legislation in the \)W state leofalizing" 
the construction of dams. This is very short-sighted 
policy, as a few low dams, with long race-ways, placed 
in the river to control the power for manufacturing pur- 
poses, would in a few years, with its present start and 
possibilities, make the Delaware valley the rival of the 
far-famed Merrimac, Passaic and Ohio valleys. 

We shot through Bull's Island (Raven Rock) dam, 
and down the rapids at three o'clock, passing Point 
Pleasant. At the latter place, during an August freshet, 
a store and dwelling were swept from their founda- 
tions, bringing up in pieces at Penn's Manor, below 
Trenton. 



Reminiscences. 151 

Before reaching this place, we had a tedious experi- 
ence among the islands and shoals between Erwinna and 
Tumble, where it was necessary to get out and wade for 
some distance. Those of our party who passed to the 
right of the island found deeper water. The channel on 
the Jersey side is close to the island. 

Above Lambertville we passed Eagle and Hendricks 
Islands, with their grassy camping spots, and Carter 
regaled us with camp experiences from 1883 to within a 
few years of the present time. The channel at these 
places will be found on the left-hand side. 

We reached Lambertville, sixteen miles above Trenton, 
at five o'clock, and it was a question for debate whether 
we should camp on one of the many pleasing slopes, or 
continue homeward. 

The question, however, was decided for us in a most 
deliehtful manner. On sroing" under the bridgfe, we saw 
ahead of us a crowd of Park Island canoeists at the 
canal lock, waiting to welcome, feed, and escort home 
five proud but tired cruisers. Hand-shakings, congratu- 
lations, and orood-cheer infused new strength, and, of 
course, we decided to go on with the boys. 

It was fast falling dusk, and after Wells' Falls come 
the Bucktails, Titusville rift, Scudder's Falls, and Park 



152 Two Hundred Miles on the Delazvare River. 

Island rift, so, as all the other craft were in the canal, 
we decided to carry thither. 

Wells' Falls is caused by the present dam. It is a bad 
place at low water, on account of the rocks below the 
opening forming" a treacherous foamer. 

Scudder's Falls have a narrow shute through the dam, 
and is only a drop and a rough race. 

The other places mentioned are only ordinary rifts, 
and traveling down the left side of the river will take 
you through them all. Trenton Falls has the channel 
right in the center, all the way through. It is winding, 
however, and the first part takes you close to a long 
crravel bar on the left-hand side. 

Many hands make light work, and the carry was soon 
completed. Chatting and rehearsing incidents, wonders 
and escapes of the trip, and breaking bread with our 
escorts, in some twenty canoes, we invaded the quiet 
vale and left much wonderment in our wake. 

It was or>'Owinor dark when we carried to the river and 
floated down past Washington's Crossing. 

Back in a grassy hollow nestled the old-fashioned, 
shingle-covered house, of hewn timbers and curved 
gables, that sheltered General Washington and his aides 
on that memorable Christmas eve, 1776, when the Con- 



In Mcnwriam. 153 

tinental army crossed the river, amid the floating ice, and 
landed on New Jersey soil. Their march to Trenton by 
the Pennington road and the capture of the Hessian 
troops are incidents that have been vividly recalled by 
recent historical celebrations. 

The house, erected about ten years prior to the revo- 
lution, is a fitting picture of "ye olden colonial tymmes," 
and bears the scars of many winters. Inside, over the 
open fire-place, the wooden mantle shows curious poker 
tracings, and a deep hole in the wall tells the tale of 
pistol practice at short range, spotting the ace. 

Across in Pennsylvania, at the end^of the gravel bar, 
where the old ferry road used to run, is the point from 
which the crossing was made. The ferry, known as Mc- 
Kenty's ferry, connected with the road on the Jersey 
shore, which then ran to the river at a point near where 
the old house stands. 

The Pennsylvania road ended above the present toll 
bridge, about in front of Dr. Griffith's residence. Later 
a toll bridge was erected lower down, and the roads on 
both sides extended to connect with it. Thus traces of 
the ferry were destroyed. 

To mark the original spot, the Bucks County Historical 
Society contemplated erecting a fifteen-dollar monument, 



154 Ttvo Hundred Miles on the Delaware River. 

but so much fun was made of the amount appropriated 
that nothing further has been done, at this writing, than 
to haul stones for the foundation, which stones still lay 
piled near the spot. 

When the first toll-bridge was built a Quaker painter 
executed two paintings of Washington and his favorite 
steed, naihng one at each end of the bridge. 

When the bridge was destroyed by a freshet, years 
ago, one picture was taken possession of by Landlord 
Jamieson, of Taylorsville, and the other fell into the 
hands of the proprietor of the Washington's Crossing 
hotel. The former was presented to the Historical 
Society of Pennsylvania, while the latter adorns the bar 
of the hostelrle on the Jersey side. There are many 
other incidents connected with the surroundino^s, the 
relation of which with more detail has been reserved for 
another part of this book. 

As we journeyed on our old friend the moon came 
up full and grand from the peaceful hillside, making for 
us a bright pathway as we drifted down to Park Island, 
the home of the Trenton canoeists. 

Here some of the party stopped at the Club 
house, and others went on, bound for "Home, Sweet 
Home !" 



A Fitting Sentiment. 155 

And so ended a charming vacation cruise, whose 
associations we shall ever recall with pleasure. 

And, replete with Nature's varied phases and influ- 
ences as was the time we passed, as we mused one and 
all reechoed with Shakespeare: 

'' And this our life, exempt from public haunt, 
Finds tongues in trees, books in the running brooks, 
Sermons in stones, and good in everything. 



a;be SnD— ©ooD IRigbt. 



HppcnMy II ♦ 



1RcinarF?0. 




PME time ago, while engaged in collaborating 
an historical sketch for a local paper, the 
author necessarily engaged in an extended 
research of acknowledged authorities, includ- 
ing such local treatises as Smith's "History 
of New Jersey," 1765 ; Proude's "History of 
Pennsylvania," 1798; "New York Gazeteer," Tuttle's 
"Physical Man," and, through the courtesy of the State 
Librarian of New Jersey, Col. Morris Hamilton, Brin- 
ton's "Aboriginal American Literature," Vol. V., ("The 
Lenape and their Legends"). 

The reading, outside of the matter in hand at that 
time, proved very interesting, especially to one living in 
so historical a spot as is the vicinage of Trenton. 

The settlement of the country, the Indians of the 
earlier periods, the acquisition of their lands, and other 
numerous details of our own unique history are such, 
that, once read, they are never entirely forgotten. It is 

159 



i6o Two Hundred Miles on the Delaware River. 

no wonder then that in following up the incidents narrated 
in this volume, the author was forcibly impressed with 
the fact that the subject in hand from its local connec- 
tions would warrant the introduction of a great many 
interesting passages pertaining to the early settlement. 
It was then suggested that the digression necessary 
would, at times. Inconvenience the reader desiring to use 
the work as a book of reference — its main excuse for 
appearing. 

To overcome this, and still give the pith of the his- 
torical happenings in sequence, the following concise 
presentation of "A Little Bit of History" was decided 
upon. 

It is sincerely hoped that the perusal will give pleasure 
as well as instruction, inasmuch as the tendency of this 
busy age is to overlook those important incidents to 
which we, as a progressive nation, are so much indebted. 

The Author. 

Trenton, N. J., December ist, 1892. 



H Xittle Bit of Ibietor^, 



H Xtttle Bit of Ibistor^, 




HE territory comprised by the Middle Atlantic 
States has always been intimately associated 
with the early history of our country. 

The discovery of the Bahama Islands by 
Columbus in October, 1492 ; the landing of 
Vespucci in the Caribbees, and his further 
discoveries in the year 1501, through which this continent 
obtained its present name, though of vital importance in 
opening the way to the knowledge of a vast country 
hitherto unknown to the people of the Old World, did 
not receive such recognition from the powers benefitted 
by these possessions as one would suppose. Still it was 
through the proclamations of these discoveries that 
Henry the Seventh, of England, was induced to charge 
an expedition for the discovery of lands in higher lati- 
tudes. 

This expedition was under Sebastian Cabot, a Venetian 
explorer, who, in the year 1497, discovered and made a 

16;? 



164 Two Htindred Miles on the Delaware River. 

map of the country bordering on the ocean from Green- 
land to Florida. Possession was taken in the name of 
the crown of Enofland, and the land, beine waste and 
uncultivated, was, under the existing laws of nations, 
annexed and claimed by the English. 

The English did not remain long in ignorance of the 
value of these new acquisitions. In the year 1584, a 
company of merchants, with Sir Walter Raleigh at the 
head, obtained a charter from Queen Elizabeth, of Eng- 
land, for maklno- a settlement in America of "Virginia 
Territory," the habitable domain of the British possession 
as marked out by Cabot. 

In rapid succession, history points to the discovery of 
Delaware bay and river, Hudson river, Chesapeake bay 
and Susquehanna river. 

It was by the settlement of the lands along these rivers 
that the true character of the country was learned, and 
it Is to the territory along the first of these streams that 
we will turn our attention. 

To the Dutch East India Company belongs the honor 
of the discovery, in the year 1606, of South river. 

Through their agent, Henry Hudson, an Englishman, 
this stream and the North (or Hudson) river were dis- 
covered and explored, with the result that the country 



A Little Bit of History. 165 

was settled in the iicime of the Dutch, and called New 
Netherlands. News of this settlement reaching England 
the territory was claimed by the original proprietors, who 
compelled the Dutch to surrender their titles and lands. 

By this reversion of rights we now have New York, 
in honor of James, Duke of York, and New Jersey, 
named by Sir George Carteret, whose family came from 
the Isle of Jersey. 

The grants for these lands were conveyed to the pro- 
prietors in the year 1664, by King Charles the Second. 
It was not until 1681 that letters patent were granted 
William Penn, covering that tract of land lying "north 
of Maryland ; bounded on the east by Delaware river ; 
and on the west limited as Maryland and northward as 
far as plantable," from which letters we have the State 
of Pennsylvania. 

Regarding the present name of Delaware, by which 
the historic stream and sheltering bay is known, history 
chronicles the fact that the South river, of the Dutch, 
was named as a compliment to the memory of Lord 
Delaware, who died at sea while voyaging to the Virginia 
Colony in the year 161 8. The river, to Trenton and 
above, was called Charles river at first, while from Easton 
the Dutch bestowed upon it the name Viskill. By slow 



1 66 Tzvo Hundred Miles on the DelazvaiT River. 

Stages the stream from its scorce became known as the 
Delaware river. 

So much for English history. 

The very fact of a recital of the conditions governing 
the early settlement of the states mentioned, presupposes 
a consideration of previous Indian history. Possibly 
the latter possesses for all of us the most interesting 
features, enwrapped as it is, even at this day, in mystery. 

To the question, "Who were the original discoverers 
of the new continent?" we must undoubtedly answer 
"The North American Indians, as they were known to 
the Old World." Previous to that, as the Spaniard 
queries — " Quien Sabef 

The landing of Columbus was made in the presence 
of a strange people, whose language and mode of life 
was regarded with wonder by the Spaniards, who called 
them Indians, from the West Indies, the name given to 
all the first Spanish possessions in America, in contra- 
distinction to " East Indies." 

Vespucci in the Caribbees and Cabot at New Found- 
land encountered bands of natives each peculiar to the 
several sections of country discovered. 

The Spaniards found the natives very simple, of a low 



A Little Bit of History. 167 

order — possessing little intelligence, a crude language, 
and much superstition. They lived, too, in the most 
primitive manner. At all events, the statements of the 
discoverers and explorers upon their return home convey 
these opinions. 

That they were grossly wrong in many respects is well 
known at the present day. The enlightenment of the 
early Indian tribes of this continent — their history, beliefs 
and traditions — only became partly known as late as the 
eighteenth century, and to-day the tangled skein is as 
yet unraveled. 

The Indian opinion of the early Spanish and English 
people, who drove them from their land, we well know, 
for the hostile attitude of our western tribes to-day is an 
evidence that the injustice and imposition begun centuries 
aeo still rankles. Weakened and surrounded thouo-h 
they are, they are living examples of the well-worn say- 
ing — "An Indian never forgets." 

" They linger yet, 
Avengers of their native land." 

The time is not far off when the effects of whiskey, 
and the white man's avarice and vices, can be pointed at 
as having wiped a nation from the face of its rightful 
possession. 



1 68 Tivo Hundred Miles on the Dela^vare River. 

A detailed comparison of the inhabitants of the Old 
and New Worlds of the fifteenth century would prove of 
great interest from a scientific, physical and geographical 
standpoint. In the first place, the arts, science and 
literature of the European provinces had been slowly 
progressing for centuries under the most favorable con- 
ditions. In the New America, for how lone? The 
answer is even to-day a conjecture. 

Whence came the North American nomadic popu- 
lation ? is a hard question to answer, to such an extent 
do different authorities conflict. 

Thousands of people inhabited the continent when the 
Spaniards came. They had been living, migrating and 
accumulating knowledge long enough to have perfected 
the arts as far as they were needed for actual use. Their 
historical recollections, legends or traditions, like those 
of the Romans of old, were retained in chants and 
ceremonies, which were handed down from parent to 
children. Their literature was complete and concise, 
though to what extent we have no means of knowing, 
other than those afforded by incomplete records and long 
established oral rites. 

The Spaniards claimed that the Indians knew nothing 
of their origin or ancestors, simply pointing to the sky 



A Little Bit of History. 169 

when questioned regarding the former, and to the south 
as the abode of the latter. That the history of their 
forefathers was better understood by themselves than 
was claimed, is shown from the facts contained in the 
Indian records of late years, which consistently state that 
their ancestors came from the North and West. That 
they came from the North is proven by the fact that 
they were no strangers to cold — defying the coldest and 
bitterest weather. That they came from the West is 
known from their statement when driven from the colo- 
nies by the action of the whites — "They would return to 
the lands from whence they came." 

Historians pretty generally agree that the country dis- 
covered by Columbus had been settled in the extreme 
North and West, 2,000 years B. C. The most plausible 
theory of such settlement is that wandering Aryan tribes 
from the Asiatic realm reached the main land by cross- 
ing Behring Straits on the xA-leutian Isles, which in the 
early stages of history may have provided a continuous 
communication by land. 

The sub-tribes in America, through migrations and 
otherwise, no doubt founded the nations as they are 
known to us to-day, viz., Eskimos, Aztecs, Incas, and 
lastly, the American Indians. And it is in connection 



lyo Tzvo Hundred Miles on the Delazvare River. 

with this latter tribe that we consider the settlement of 
the Delaware valley. 

Discoveries had been made and possession taken right 
and left by foreign powers, with total disregard to the 
rights of the tribes occupying the new territory, but it 
was not until the year 1627 that history began to deal 
with the original owners of the continent — the Indians. 
In this year, nine years after the discovery of South 
river, the first recognition of the rights of the aborigfinal 
settlers was when the Swedes purchased from them the 
country lying on both sides of the Delaware from Cape 
Henlopen (Paradise Point) to the falls now known as 
Trenton Falls. The river they called " New Swedes- 
land stream." 

Following the precedent established, further acquisi- 
tions of land embracing New Jersey, New York and 
Pennsylvania were made by purchase from the confed- 
eration known as the Five Nations. 

It was on account of the equitable and just purchase 
from the rightful owners, even after the proprietary 
grants from the owners, that the State of Pennsylvania, 
through William Penn enjoyed the immunity from that 
Indian distrust which was so marked in those other 
sections seized and usurped by the early settlers. 



A Little Bit of History. 1 7 1 

'' On just and fairest terms the land is gain'd ; 
No force of arms has any right obtain'd. 
'Tis here, without tlie use of arms, alone, 
The blest jnhabitant enjoys his own : 
Here many, to their wish, in peace enjoy 
Their happy lots ; and nothing doth annoy. 
But sad New England's different conduct show'd 
What dire effects from injured Indians flow'd." 

The Indian history relating- to the territory embraced 
in the three states aforesaid, enables us to gain an 
insight into the conditions of the country and its inhabit- 
ants before the usurpation and final total possession by 
the whites. It is to the early English writers and mis- 
sionaries that we are indebted for the preservation of the 
little now known of the Indians of America, their tradi- 
tions and literature. Our own historians have perfected 
by all means possible such records of the savage era as 
have been left them. But the rapid extinction, caused 
by disease and forced migration from the first colonial 
possessions, has left an incompleteness of detail and 
ground-work for study the want of which has mainly 
been supplied by that most indefinite of all processes — 
theory. 

Historical traditions from the most authentic sources 
establish the theory that the whole country contained scat- 



172 Tivo Hundred Miles on the Delazuare River. 

tered tribes of savagfes, each tribe beingf known as a 
nation with a head chief, king, or sachem. The legends 
of these different nations, interesting and quaint as they 
certainly are, disagree emphatically with each other in 
vital points. We can thus see the doubt and perplexity 
attendant upon the correct presentations of such records. 
That the tribes and confederacies had been at war with 
one another for an indefinite period, is well known by 
our own writers, from the chronicles of our own times. 
But that their war-like proclivities were aggravated by 
the whites cannot be disputed. 

The territory inhabited and controlled by these tribes 
and alliances stretched from the Atlantic coast to the 
Rocky mountains ; from the lakes to Georgia ; even to 
the country north of New Foundland. To treat of the 
Indians, in connection with this work, brings us directly 
into contact with that tribe of the Five Nations, calling 
themselves the Grandfathers of Nation — the Lenni 
Lenape — the original Delaware Indians of present his- 
tory. This nation claimed the totem symbolic of the 
legendary tortoise that supported the tribe on its back 
and saved it at the time of the flood. This legend, it 
will be noted, corresponds with the Brahmin legend of 
former times. 



A Little Bit of History. 173 

The whole Delaware valley was peopled by the Lenape 
and their sub-tribes, and the country from the Susque- 
hanna to the sea was claimed by them. William Penn, 
in letters forwarded to England, describes them a very 
peaceable nation, and they were in no wise involved in 
the early Colonial wars. Penn also treatly directly with 
the Unami and Un-alachtio-o sub-tribes for the land in 
the first Indian deed dated in the year 1682. The bal- 
ance of the lands was acquired from the Minsi and 
Iroquois tribes, who held undisputed possession of a 
larae tract. 

The Unami territory also extended to the mouth of 
the North river, and it was by this means that an off- 
shoot of the tribe, the Mahicanni, settled on the Upper 
Hudson, taking the same totems, the wolf, the turtle 
and the turkey. Through some reason they became 
absorbed in the New England tribes, and lost to a great 
degree their original tongue. 

The Lenape name for the strip of land lying between 
the Delaware river and the Atlantic ocean was Sha-akbee, 
meaning "long land between water." So, also, they 
called the river Lenape Wihittuck (the stream of the 
Lenape). The name, however, applied only from the 
ocean to the Forks at Easton. At this point we find the 



174 Tzvo Hundred Miles on the Delazvare River. 

original East and West Branches, the former known as 
the Lecha, now the Lehigh river. From Easton to Har- 
denburo- Patent, in New York State, the Indian name 
was Namae Sipu, or Seepu, (Fish river). The Dutch 
called it Viskill. As the river became better known 
through boating and rafting the present name was ap- 
plied to it from the junction of the Mohawk and Popacton 
branches, below Hancock, New York, to the Delaware 
river. The former takes its name from the tribe of the 
Lenapo Confederacy. 

The Lenni Lenap6 sub-tribes and their location were 
as follows : The Minsi, or Mountain tribe, with the wolf 
as the totemic animal, inhabited the country above the 
Forks of the Delaware. They had two council fires, 
one at Water Gap and the other on Minisink plains. 
Their lands extended from the Hudson to and beyond 
the Susquehanna. The Unami — from the Indian Naheu, 
meaning down stream — or Turtle tribe, trace their wig- 
wams from the Lehigh valley to the falls at Trenion. 
The Unalachtigo, or Turkey tribe, designating "the 
people who live near the ocean," occupied the land from 
Philadelphia to Wilmington. The low lands about 
Trenton were settled upon by the Assanhicans, "The 
Stone-implement People," a small sub tribe, whose lands 



A Little Bit of History. 175 

also extended along the upper Indian path to New 
York bay. 

The legends, traditions and literature of this nation 
have been well preserved through their prominence in 
connection with the English proprietaries. The Lenape 
were well versed in the art of pottery-making, copper- 
smelting and paint-mixing, and relics of their handicraft 
are constantly found by scientists in the Delaware valley. 
At Park Island, the retreat of the Trenton canoeists, 
several fine specimens of arrowheads, stone hatchets 
and pottery have been unearthed. 

A few members of this once powerful and important 
tribe still exists among the Indians of the far West. 

Francis Parkman, in his book 'The Oregon Trail," has 
the following to say: "This tribe, the Delawares, once 
the peaceful allies of William Penn, the tributaries of 
the conquering Iroquois, are now (1847) the most 
adventurous and dreaded warriors upon the prairies. 
They make war upon remote tribes, the very names of 
which were unknown to their fathers in the ancient seats 
in Pennsylvania, and they push these new quarrels with 
true Indian rancor, sending out their war parties as far 
as the Rocky mountains, and into the Mexican terri- 
tories. But the Delawares dwindle every year, from 



176 Two Hiuidi-ed Miles on the Delazvare River. 

the number of men lost in their war-Hke expeditions." 

One thing is certain their disappearance from the land 
of their council fires was remarkably complete. As 
early as the year 1700 their deterioration commenced, 
and the last remnant migrated to Ohio in the year 1800. 
Fifty years later their bands were scattered over the 
plains beyond the Platte. 

To the white man's war-like teachino-s and the scourgfes 
of the day — whiskey and small-pox — can be traced their 
overthrow. In view of what they once were, their 
friendliness and readiness to part peaceably with valuable 
grants, they deserved a better fate. 
For, as Milton says — 

" Thus was this place 
A happy rural seat of various views." 



Bppcnbiy 1I1I, 



2)i0tancc0 on the Delaware, 

These distances are in the main correct — 

Hancock to Stockport Station, ...... 4^ miles. 

Stockport to Lordville, ...... 5^ " 

Lordville to Long Eddy, . . . . . . 6^ " 

Long Eddy to Callicoon, ...... I " 

Callicoon to Cochecton, . . . . . . SX " 

Cochecton to Narrowsburg, ...... 8^ " 

Narrowsburg to Masthope, . . . . . • 5%^ " 

Masthope to Westcolang Park, ..... 3 " 

Westcolang Park to Lackawaxen, ..... 2}^ " 

Lackawaxen to Shohola, ...... 4 " 

Shohola to Pond Eddy, . . . . . . . 8 " 

Pond Eddy to Port Jervis, . .... io3ijf " 

Port Jervis to New Jersey State Line, ..... 2^ " 

Total 6854^ miles (direct line measurements), passing 
Equmink, Little Eqiimink, below Stockport and Lord- 
ville ; Hankins. below Long Eddy ; Parker's Glen, below 
Shoholo ; and Matamoras, opposite Port Jervis. 

New Jersey State Line to Milford, Pennsylvania, . . . 5^ miles. 

Milford to Montague, ...... X " 

Montague to Dingman's Ferry, ...... 6^ " 

Dingman's to Bevans, or Peter's Valley, . . . . I^ " 

179 



i8o Two Hundred Miles on the Delazvare River. 

Bevatis to Walpack Center, . . . . . .3 miles. 

Walpack Center to Bushkill, ..... 6 " 

Length of Walpack Bend, . . . . . . 2_!4 " 

Bush'cill to Millbrmk (traveling through Walpack Bend), . . 3 " 

Millbrook to Calno, . . . . . . . i>< " 

Calno to Brotzmansville, ...... 6 '' 

Brot/.mansville to Mouth of Cherry Creek (Water Gap), . . i/^ '' 

Cherry Creek to Portland, . . . . . . 5/{ " 

Portland to Delaware Station, . . . . . . Ij^ " 

Delaware vStation to Ramsaysburg, . . . . . i/^ " 

Ramsaysburg to Manunka Chunk, . . . . . i " 

Manunka Chunk to Belvidere (Pequest Creek), . . . 33^ " 

Belvidere to Martin's Creek, . . . . . . 6 " 

Martin's Creek to Brainard's, . . . . . ij^ " 

Brainard's to Phillipsburg, . . . . . • 5 " 

Phillipsburg to Carpenterville (Raubville), .... 4^ " 

Carpenterville to Reigelsville, ...... 2)^ " 

Reigelsville to Durham Furnace, ..... 1)4, " 

Durham Furnace to Milford, New Jersey, .... 5X " 

Milford to Frenchtown, ...... 3 " 

Frenchtown to Erwinna, . . . % . . i/^ " 

Erwinna to Tumble, . . . . . . I/^ " 

Tumble to Lumberville (Raven Rock), .... 5_^ " 

Lumberville to Lambertville (Cat Hill), . . . . S/( " 

Lambertville to Moore's, . . . . . • 5 " 

Moore's to Washington's Crossing, ..... 3 " 

Washington's Crossing to Yardley, . . . . . 4 " 

Yardley to Trenton, ...... 4 " 

Total distance from New Jersey State line to Trenton, 
in a straight line, 109^ miles. 



J q? 8 



© 



